Riverside House: The Cowboys of the Great West
I found myself perched high in Alan’s massive truck, sharing the space with ten calves as we set off toward an uncertain destination. Yet, I felt perfectly at ease in Alan's company; he is a man who knows exactly where he’s going and possesses a deep, effortless mastery of his life as a rancher.
Alan owns 2,000 acres and leases another 10,000, managing a herd of 1,000 cattle and eight horses with a blend of seriousness and a constant, welcoming smile. He is assisted by his son, Jim—a man of immense strength and kindness who operates a second "big rig" capable of transporting up to fifty animals at once.
Our journey took us over three snow-capped mountain passes and into a region steeped in the history of gold and silver mining. Along Highway 26, we passed through tiny settlements like Ironside, where the numerous abandoned houses lend a haunting, melancholy charm to the rugged landscape.
Alan is a man of endless curiosity. As he drove cautiously, he shared a fascinating family story from the 1940s: his father and aunt had leased a "placer mining" claim in Colombia for several years. While they never struck it rich with gold, their hydraulic mining efforts, supported by a crew of a hundred workers, eventually unearthed a significant trove of rare Indigenous artifacts. This "treasure"—comprised of earrings, nose rings, and intricate pure gold jewelry—was smuggled across the border hidden beneath a coat. Carefully preserved in a family safe ever since, it remains a proud cornerstone of the Jacobs' family heritage.
After about an hour of driving, we emerged into a sprawling valley where a series of log corrals already held nearly 250 calves.
As soon as the bright yellow truck, emblazoned with "Riverside Ranch," completed its maneuvers, the unloading began. The air was filled with a thunderous cacophony of hooves echoing against metal floors. Once off the truck, the calves were guided four at a time through a narrow corridor and into a specialized manual chute. Each animal was briefly held in place—just long enough to receive two injections in the neck and a dose of liquid in each nostril.
As the temperature dropped, I eventually retreated from the corrals to the warmth of Alan’s truck cab. With a quick turn of the key, I tuned into a local radio station broadcasting classic country music. There was no mistaking it: I was a world away from France, and certainly far from the quiet rhythms of La Bastide-Puylaurent.
For the return trip, I joined Jim in his massive truck, with Alan following a few hundred yards behind. As dusk fell, we narrowly avoided a deer that darted across the snowy road. The interior of the rig was remarkably rustic: rugged seats, a spotlight controlled by a lever above the door, a 15-speed transmission, dual engine brakes, a CB radio, and, of course, a booming train horn.
Jim has been behind the wheel for nearly a decade. When the heavy truck ahead of us signaled on CB channel 19, the conversation flowed effortlessly. The other driver had come from California to pick up a load of lumber at the Prairie City sawmill and was visibly anxious about the slippery mountain roads. "He must be new to this route," Jim remarked, knowing these treacherous curves by heart. That driver would spend the night sleeping in his cab with the engine idling to stay warm, waiting for his morning pickup.
In their crackling radio chatter, you could hear the genuine pleasure these "loners of the road" find in connecting over shared stories—much like the cowboys of old gathered around a campfire to swap news and see if they had mutual acquaintances.
Every December, the family heads to Las Vegas, Nevada, for the National Finals Rodeo. Alan, Jim, and their younger brother Justin (22) are all active competitors. Justin is the family champion, specialized in riding wild "Broncos" and calf roping. The walls of their home are proudly adorned with his numerous medals and trophies.
The Riverside Ranch B&B is housed in a former one-room village schoolhouse, complete with its original bell, which gives it the charming appearance of a small chapel. A large door opens into a vast, high-ceilinged room that includes a cozy sitting area, two large beds, and private bathrooms. The decor is simple and evocative: vintage photos of schoolchildren from 1934, a small antique desk, and a period wood stove standing in the center of the room. In keeping with the historic atmosphere, there is no television or telephone.
Located about six miles from Prairie City, the property is a haven of peace, nestled among groves of trees just a hundred yards from the John Day River. The working ranch sits on the opposite side of a small dead-end road. When the ranch is active and the surrounding nature awakens, there is truly no better place to immerse oneself in the authentic atmosphere of the American West.
Judith visited L'Etoile in June 2003, accompanied by her colleague Linda Harrington, who runs the Strawberry Mountain Inn B&B just seven miles away. They are both energetic, open-minded women who are deeply enthusiastic about this "exchange" style of travel. I believe they thoroughly enjoyed their time in the Cévennes; in fact, Judith is already planning a return trip to spend a full month exploring the region around La Bastide-Puylaurent.
Riverside School House B&B, Judith & Alan Jacobs, Prairie City, Oregon, USA -
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