Marion Hawkins, a woman in her sixties, truly embodies the spirit of hospitality. Petite and reserved, yet brimming with goodwill, she manages her Bed and Breakfast with remarkable generosity and careful attention. It feels like a true B&B—exactly as one imagines and hopes for; she is undoubtedly the queen of B&Bs. There is a deeply authentic atmosphere here. Upon our arrival, Marion warmly welcomed us with an aperitif that she shared with us: three types of wine accompanied by crackers, cheese, and pâté.
Originally from New Zealand, Marion has lived in British Columbia for 25 years. "It was a series of opportunities," she tells me, "and then it was simply time to leave to experience something more fulfilling." The people of New Zealand and Australia have a wonderful way of preserving this refreshing outlook—always ready to embark on a new journey when the time is right, remaining highly attentive and open to life's unexpected surprises.
For the evening meal in the beautiful Victorian-style dining room, there were six of us, including Wendy and Ralph Burgess, the owners of the 'Wilp Gybuu' (The Wolf House in the native language) Bed & Breakfast in Tofino, a small port town at the far edge of Vancouver Island. We were also joined by Colleen and Ron Wike, who had opened a charming little craft shop called 'Sage House Studio' just a few doors down.
The conversation was lively. At one point, Ralph, who is of Indigenous descent, remarked: "What is so nice about Europeans is that we can express ourselves freely and without complexes, even when discussing politics!" Why not, and all the better! However, I couldn't help but remember a few overly heated discussions back at L'Etoile where, gathering my courage—or rather, pouring myself a good Belgian beer—I had to delicately extinguish the conversational fires to maintain a convivial atmosphere around the dinner table.
Marion, who had prepared an absolutely excellent meal for us, took advantage of the lively mood to rest a little. She was visibly happy to see her guests so enthusiastic, thoroughly basking in the magical atmosphere of the Olde Mill House B&B.
Ron, originally from Washington State, USA, didn't shy away from launching a few critical remarks regarding the United States and its superpower status. Strangely, throughout this trip, I have noticed a growing sympathy for Europe. Are we giving them the impression of being particularly clever? Or perhaps it is simply the Euro that makes them realize Europe is a very real and unified entity.
I hear President Bush being criticized more and more frequently. Of course, we are far from Texas here, and Canadians generally do not seek to impose their worldview on others. Yet, they remain deeply tied to the US economically, leaving them feeling a bit trapped in the relationship.
My digital photos on my laptop always make a strong impression; France, and particularly the surroundings of La Bastide-Puylaurent, seem like an absolute paradise to them. Trails like the Regordane or the Cévenol literally make them want to step right through the screen. "And you do everything yourself?! Even the evening meals?!" they ask in disbelief. Marion understands this perfectly and is already dreaming about her next trip across the Atlantic. She will certainly be able to enjoy L'Etoile and take a well-deserved, restful break there.
Chemainus is a lovely, vibrant small seaside town. What immediately strikes you are the massive, beautiful murals painted along its streets. By simply following the footprints painted on the sidewalks, one can easily tour all of Chemainus, admiring the artworks alongside charming little artisan boutiques and antique shops, such as 'The Old House,' conveniently located just next door to Marion.
Olde Mill House B&B, Chemainus, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada - Map
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