Horse Creek Ranch On the gold diggers way

Esther, a spirited cook in her sixties, greets us warmly with a firm handshake upon our arrival at the estate. “Are you the guests from France we’ve been expecting?” she inquires, followed by a considerate, “Have you had dinner?” Her hospitality is a welcome comfort after our journey through the expansive landscapes that whisper of the approaching winter.

Recently, Siebe was called back to his native Holland due to family matters. Emmy, his devoted wife, drove to Edmonton airport to fetch him. Their return is expected late tonight, so our introductions will have to wait until the morrow.

The ranch greets us with its iconic portico, herds of horses, and a sea of birches that paint the terrain with strokes of autumn. This is the Canadian Far West, a land still echoing with tales of the Klondike Gold Rush. “The fever of 1898 lingers,” Esther shares with a twinkle in her eye. “My son’s friend, among many, ventures there each summer in search of fortune.” It’s a curious blend of nature’s allure, the lure of gold, and the camaraderie among prospectors.

Esther, once a partner in the horse trade with her late husband, now leads a quieter life. She offers her culinary talents to visitors, her stories a tapestry woven from a rich and storied past. I find myself wishing for a recorder; her narratives are captivating, brimming with vitality.

A mere 14 kilometers northwest lies Fort Assiniboine, a pivotal site from 1823 to 1868, home to the Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post. Nestled on the banks of the Athabasca River, it’s a two-hour journey from Edmonton, Alberta’s capital. Our route from Vancouver traversed British Columbia, passing through Merritt and Kamloops, and scaling the Rocky Mountains via Jasper. Beyond the majestic, snow-capped peaks lies the descent into the plains and forests of central Canada—a straight path where adhering to the 110 km/h speed limit proves challenging.

Siebe’s discovery of this secluded hamlet is a tale of self-discovery and the realization that life can flourish elsewhere. It’s the pursuit of a place that resonates with one’s deepest aspirations, a sanctuary for self-fulfillment. Siebe’s unwavering belief in this vision is palpable, inspiring us with every word and gesture.

On this 13th day of October, the weather is agreeable, the trees still clad in their leafy attire. Canada reveals itself as a delightful abode. Even Fort Assiniboine boasts a quaint eatery, operated by a Cantonese proprietor. It reminds me of the two Mandarin phrases I picked up during my inaugural visit to Australia’s Northern Territory—“xiexie” for thank you, and “nihao” for hello. It was there, in the modest town of Katherine, south of Darwin, that the iconic “Crocodile Dundee” was filmed.

In the vast wilderness, a diverse array of wildlife thrives: cougars, elk, deer, wolves, bears, and beavers. The cougar, or mountain lion, stealthily ascends trees, perching over five feet above ground to mask its scent from unsuspecting prey before pouncing with outstretched claws.

Our horseback expedition revealed only a glimpse of this rich ecosystem—a few deer and a solitary partridge. Above, wild geese conversed noisily, embarking on their annual voyage to Mexico’s warmth. Siebe, with his keen eye, interprets the land’s subtle narratives: bear claw marks etched into birch bark, deer-trampled shrubs, and the gnawed timber testament to the beavers’ relentless labor.

The ranch is home to about thirty horses, fifty cattle, and a loyal dog. Siebe and Emmy, once farmers in Holland, harbor no longing for their past life. “There’s no future for farmers in Holland,” Siebe declares. When asked about homesickness for Dutch delicacies like Gouda, speculoos, or peanut paste, Emmy reassures, “We find all these products in Barrhead.” This small town, where I acquired my Canadian jacket and fur-lined gloves, is a treasure trove of necessities and novelties. A local saleswoman, intrigued by our presence, inquires, “How did you find your way here?” Our answer is simple: the Internet—a gateway to this unspoiled pioneer land.

The Athabasca River, born in the Rockies near Jasper, carves a path toward the Arctic, traversing Saskatchewan and the Northwest Territories. In the grip of winter, the river’s surface succumbs to ice, yet beneath, the current persists undeterred.

It is upon these historic waters, once navigated by Indigenous peoples and intrepid pioneers, that we embark. A three-hour journey under the cerulean expanse of an Indian summer sky. The river, a mosaic of islands, occasionally plays host to hunters who dare to intrude upon the solitude of bears, moose, caribou, cougars, eagles, and more.

To experience Canada is to feel the pulse of the earth, the whisper of the forest, the rhythm of the river, and the profound silence that envelops us. It is to step beyond the tourist’s path and embrace a welcome unmarred by clichés—a genuine encounter with the heart of the wild.