Dayspring Lodge B&B Between lake and mountains

Embarking on our journey to Kaslo, we depart from Revelstoke, leaving behind the Columbia River and setting our course towards Arrow Lake. Awaiting us is a heavily laden ferry, ready for a 30-minute voyage across the water. The weather is consistently clear, with the sky a brilliant blue each day. The vibrant colors of the forests, mountains, and rivers paint a picture of pure, untouched beauty.

Venturing into the woods via a small, forgotten path, the silence of the wilderness is broken by the sound of stones rolling down from the left. We stand still for a few moments, and two moose appear on the mountainside, about 200 meters away. We exchange glances before they disappear back into the woods.

Leaving the beaten path, we delve deeper into the forest. This forest, untouched since the turn of the century, is a testament to nature’s resilience. Trees fall naturally, leaving behind tall, wide stumps bearing the marks of the lumberjacks who once worked here. Now, the forest is silent and somewhat eerie, with green moss blanketing everything and fallen trees forming natural pathways. It’s a true wilderness where one could easily lose their way, and where encounters with lynx or bears are not uncommon.

Midway through our journey, we come across Trout Lake, a serene village that, despite its small population of a hundred, boasts a Windsor Hotel built in 1892. It’s 1 pm and a sign reads “back at 3 pm”. We had hoped for a hearty lunch in this quaint place, but it seems that will have to wait. Just 200 meters away, Marlène Savage operates a gas pump and the “General Store Groceries”, a small convenience store that will tide us over until we reach Kaslo, which is still 111 km away.

The road to Kaslo soon turns into a track that stretches for nearly 100 km. It’s a guaranteed immersion into the heart of Canada as we travel through the valley alongside the Lardeau River. An eagle perches on a dead tree, and then we see what we’ve been hoping for - a grizzly bear by the water. The bear, of considerable size, strolls leisurely on the other side of the river.

Kaslo, home to 900 residents, sits on the edge of a 150 km long lake. This small town is a melting pot of lumberjacks, hippies, artists, tech professionals, and a few remaining natives. From the mountains, those living on the fringes come down for their shopping. The stores in Kaslo may be small, but they are well-stocked and the shopkeepers are friendly. A must-visit is Sunnyside Naturals, a store specializing in natural products or “organic food”, managed by three amiable women, two of whom hail from the former Czechoslovakia. They offer delicious homemade organic juice. Nelson, the region’s major city, is 65 km away.

Nestled 12 km south of Kaslo and overlooking the lake, Dayspring Lodge B&B is a large, modern villa, the brainchild of a creative architect. The hosts, Mark and Jacqueline, welcome guests into their expansive living room, which seamlessly merges with a kitchen under a soaring ceiling over 5 meters high. Cozy aperitifs by the fireplace and animated discussions set the tone for the stay. Mark, an anthropologist hailing from Victoria on Vancouver Island, is a bibliophile with a collection of hundreds of books. Jacqueline, on the other hand, is a seasoned manager who runs several businesses. Among her many roles, she is a nature travel guide in Honduras and Guatemala. She is the culinary artist behind the delicious meals and tastefully prepared breakfasts. They have been successfully running their B&B for 5 years and find great joy in it.

The lodge’s appeal is undeniable, with a breathtaking view of the lake and the opposing mountains. A spacious balcony offers guests a place to unwind in the sun and breathe in the pure air. The pristine water from the river can be drunk directly, adding to the natural charm.

At Dayspring Lodge B&B, guests can avail traditional Thai massages offered by Francine, originally from Quebec. These massages are a therapeutic blend of stretches and pressure acupuncture points. Mark, with his robust 4X4, guides guests to the Fry Creek Trail, a path known only to locals that leads to the edge of Fry Creek after several kilometers of trails. Despite the beautiful weather, the water at the edges of the river is already frozen in places. Small wooden footbridges and a few half-buried telephone wires hark back to the gold rush era.

Mark, energetic and spry at 62, is a seasoned guide who knows the region like the back of his hand, having camped in the area for over 30 years. His two dogs, full of energy and always ready for an adventure, accompany him. They navigate the terrain with ease, scaling small cliffs as if by magic, and making split-second decisions on whether a path is surmountable.

The atmosphere in Canada, unlike Europe, is a unique blend of Chinese music, relaxing hot tubs, and vast open spaces. The dress code is more relaxed and devoid of pretense. Interactions are more direct and attentive. Spending time in their company is a learning experience in itself.

Dayspring Lodge Bed and Breakfast, Jacqueline & Mark Mailing, Kaslo, Kootenay Lake, British Columbia, Canada - Map