Dayspring Lodge B&B: Between lake and mountains
To reach our next destination, Kaslo, we leave Revelstoke and the Columbia River behind, heading toward Arrow Lake. A heavily loaded ferry awaits us there for a short thirty-minute crossing. The sky remains a brilliant, clear blue every single day, and the vivid colors of the vast forests, mountains, and rivers are strikingly pure. While wandering into the woods along an abandoned trail, the sudden clatter of rolling stones higher up on the left shatters the deep silence of the great outdoors. After a few motionless seconds, two majestic moose emerge on the mountainside about 200 meters away. We briefly exchange glances before they quietly disappear back into the thick woods.
Leaving the narrow trail, we plunge into the deep, untouched forest. This woodland has remained completely wild since the turn of the century. Trees fall naturally, and one can still see the ancient notch marks on the tall, wide stumps that once supported busy lumberjacks. Out here, there is absolutely no one else. The silence is absolute, and the atmosphere feels almost eerie, with vibrant green moss covering everything. Fallen tree trunks serve as natural pathways. This is the real, untamed forest—the kind where you could easily get lost, where a lynx might be watching from above, or a bear could silently approach from behind.
Halfway through our journey lies Trout Lake, a quiet, tiny village of only about a hundred residents, yet it boasts its very own Windsor Hotel, built in 1892. It is 1:00 PM, and a sign on the door simply reads, "Back at 3:00 PM." We were more than ready for a hearty lunch in this surprisingly historic place, but it will have to wait for another time. Just 200 meters away lives Marlene Savage, who manages both the local gas pump and the "General Store Groceries." This small convenience store provides us with a quick bite to eat while we continue the long 111-kilometer drive to Kaslo.
The road to Kaslo quickly turns into a rough dirt track stretching for nearly 100 kilometers. Traveling through this valley along the Lardeau River gives you the guaranteed impression of being deep in the true Canadian wilderness. We spot a majestic eagle perched on a dead tree, and finally, exactly what we had hoped for: a grizzly bear on the riverbank. The massive bear strolls peacefully along the opposite side of the rushing water.
Kaslo is home to just 900 souls living peacefully on the shores of a stunning 150-kilometer-long lake. Loggers, hippies, artists, IT specialists, and a few native residents bring this vibrant little town to life. People living off-grid in the surrounding mountains occasionally descend to do their shopping. The shops in Kaslo are small, but they carry absolutely everything you might need, and the shopkeepers are incredibly friendly. One spot not to be missed is "Sunnyside Naturals," a fantastic organic food store run by three welcoming women, two of whom hail from the former Czechoslovakia. You can relax and enjoy their delicious homemade organic juices. Nelson is the nearest "big city," though it sits 65 kilometers away.
A large, modern villa designed by a highly creative architect, Dayspring Lodge B&B is located 12 kilometers south of Kaslo, directly facing the lake. Mark and Jacqueline warmly welcome us into their incredibly spacious living room, which flows seamlessly into a kitchen featuring ceilings over five meters high. We enjoy small aperitifs by the cozy fireplace while engaging in lively discussions. Mark is a fascinating anthropologist originally from Victoria on Vancouver Island. He absolutely loves books and has collected hundreds of them. Jacqueline, conversely, is a sharp manager who runs several businesses and possesses a highly practical mindset. Among her many talents, she works as a nature tour guide in Honduras and Guatemala. She also prepares the lodge's delicious meals and breakfasts, crafted with immense care. They have been successfully running their B&B for five years now and are clearly very happy here.
It's incredibly easy to see why they love it—the panoramic view of the lake and the towering mountains is absolutely magnificent! A massive balcony allows their guests to relax in the warm sun and breathe in the exceptionally pure air. It is just as pristine as the local water, which can safely be drunk straight from the rushing river.
At Dayspring Lodge B&B, Francine—originally from Quebec—offers highly relaxing traditional Thai massages, combining deep stretches and precise acupressure points. Later, Mark takes us in his massive 4x4 to the Fry Creek Trail, a hidden path known only to locals. After several kilometers of rugged trails, it leads us directly to the edge of Fry Creek. The water along the riverbank is already frozen in places, despite the beautiful, sunny weather. We cross charming small wooden bridges and spot a few remaining telephone wires, half-buried and left over from the frantic gold rush era.
Despite being 62 years old, Mark is remarkably full of energy. It is genuinely difficult for us to keep up with him as he hikes quickly and effortlessly through the terrain. He knows the area intimately, having camped here extensively over thirty years ago. His two dogs are equally energetic—darting left and right, scaling small, steep cliffs as if by magic, and instantly judging whether an obstacle is surmountable.
The unique Canadian atmosphere—so different from Europe—is a fascinating mix of Chinese music playing softly, a relaxing hot tub under the stars, and breathtakingly vast open spaces. The clothing style is also quite different: much more laid-back, comfortable, and entirely without complexes. Social interactions are noticeably more direct, sincere, and highly attentive. You truly learn a lot simply by spending some quality time with them.
Dayspring Lodge Bed and Breakfast, Jacqueline & Mark Mailing, Kaslo, Kootenay Lake, BC, Canada -
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