Corang Farmstay: An Oasis in the Bush
The Australian bush, an endless expanse where the owners of "outback stations" typically hold around half a million acres (roughly 150,000 hectares), stretches out in vast, awe-inspiring landscapes. Here, eucalyptus trees are sparse, sheep replace cattle, dirt roads stretch perfectly straight as far as the eye can see, and the sky appears more expansive than ever. We have now permanently left the "Tropical South" and its fire-scorched forests south of Sydney.
In Harden (not Holden, like the famous car brand that won the 1970 Le Mans 24 Hours), a small town of 2,301 inhabitants, life seems frozen in an almost surreal calm. The youth are leaving, and with Canberra over 100 kilometers away, city dwellers don’t flock here for weekends. The local library, run by a young woman, welcomes us as an unexpected haven. She directs us to a computer to check our emails before disappearing to smoke a cigarette on the bench outside. At the clothing store, the atmosphere is incredibly friendly, even if high fashion seems a distant concern. We chat about the local way of life, and the shopkeeper dreams aloud of a trip beyond Australia—a dream likely out of reach. Outside, the sun’s relentless heat turns our car into an oven. Harden’s main street, a sprawling 50 meters wide, is lined with aging, large cars. Road signs are sparse, but the natural friendliness of the locals makes navigating easy.
We pass through Wallendbeen almost without noticing it. A discreet sign points to "Corang" on the right. The real bush begins here, where red dirt tracks stretch to the horizon, sometimes without a single gas pump in sight. In this harsh setting, we come upon a true oasis: our "Aussie Bed and Breakfast Inn," located three and a half hours from Sydney and six hours from Melbourne.
Colleen welcomes us warmly and with vibrant enthusiasm. Her house, a former working farm brilliantly converted into a B&B, exudes pure authenticity. Inside, furnished in a charming, old-fashioned style and decorated with family photos, a small wooden bar immediately catches the eye. On their remaining 100 hectares, Greg and Colleen grow grain, harvest hay, and graze sheep for a neighboring farm located five kilometers away. The space here feels absolutely immense, yet it is almost modest compared to the massive stations spanning half a million hectares.
Their beautiful property features a swimming pool, a tennis court, graceful horses, and a vibrant flower garden—a striking contrast to the harsh conditions faced by early Australian settlers. Greg and Colleen, after a long life of hard work, have never given up. Their home is impeccably maintained, and their natural hospitality shines through.
After a long day under the scorching sun, absolutely nothing beats a refreshing dip in the pool. In the evening, leaning casually on the bar, Greg shares his nostalgia for the past. He reminisces about the strong mutual support of earlier times and laments the gradual decline of true Australian values, which he believes are missing in places like Byron Bay, where people increasingly rely on government aid. Greg, weathered by the great outdoors and a life of physical labor, still looks like an unstoppable force. Dressed smartly for the occasion, he perfectly embodies the generosity that defines our entire stay.
Colleen, always busy yet deeply attentive, makes us feel entirely at home in her fragrant kitchen, where the aroma of freshly baked homemade bread fills the warm air. Through the large window, an infinite landscape stretches under a breathtakingly beautiful sky. Dinner, served elegantly with placemats and fine silverware, reflects the deep care she puts into hosting us. Their immense kindness transforms this evening into an unforgettable moment.
The next day, Colleen eagerly shows us the surrounding region, an area steeped in history with tales of early pioneers, gold seekers, and infamous bushrangers. In Young, a charming town that seems delightfully stuck in the 1950s, we visit her son Gerard's thriving agricultural equipment business. Thanks to the falling Australian dollar, meat and wheat exports are flourishing, enabling Gerard to build a stunning villa on a hill and plant his very first vineyards—Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon—reflecting Australia’s booming new passion for wine.
At a local winery in Young, the rich scent and cool ambiance recall old monastic cellars. Jenny, proudly wearing a classic cowboy hat, passionately shares her joy in leaving the bustle of Sydney to fully embrace this rustic life. Her oak barrels hold true treasures: Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
Back at the B&B, another swim deeply refreshes us before Greg suggests an exciting excursion to spot wild kangaroos, followed by a well-deserved drink at Wallendbeen’s local pub. In his large 4x4, we explore his vast land, but the iconic animal remains stubbornly elusive, much to Greg’s profound disappointment.
Wallendbeen’s pub, a former colonial-style hotel, retains a genuinely unique atmosphere. Greg, clearly respected by everyone, warmly introduces us to the landlady and the colorful regulars. The mood quickly livens up. Amid flowing beers, roaring laughter, and impromptu photos, the pub’s quiet routine gives way to an impromptu party. The weathered faces of the regulars seem to tell a thousand stories, and the landlady’s grandmother, drawn by the lively commotion, joins in, adding an extra touch of raw authenticity to the night.
Back at Colleen and Greg’s, a lively barbecue on the terrace perfectly wraps up our day. As Greg expertly grills steaks, the mouth-watering aroma of sizzling meat fills the night air—a fitting symbol of the authentic, generous Australia that has welcomed us so warmly.
Map of Aussie Farmstay, Colleen and Greg Hines, Wallendbeen, NSW, Australia
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