Corang Farmstay An oasis in the Bush |
The Australian bush, this endless expanse where the owners of "outback stations" typically hold half a million acres (around 150,000 hectares), stretches out its vast landscapes. Here, eucalyptus trees are fewer, sheep replace cattle, roads stretch straight as far as the eye can see, and the sky appears more expansive than ever. We have permanently left the "Tropical South" and its fire-scorched forests south of Sydney.
In Halden (not Holden, like the famous car brand that won the 1970 Le Mans 24 Hours), a small town of 2,301 inhabitants, life seems frozen in an almost surreal calm. The youth are leaving, and with Canberra over 100 kilometers away, city dwellers don’t flock here for weekends. The library, run by a young woman, welcomes us as an unexpected haven. She shows us the computer to check our emails before disappearing to smoke a cigarette on the bench outside. At the clothing store, the atmosphere is friendly, even if fashion seems a distant concern. We talk about the local way of life, and he dreams aloud of a trip beyond Australia—a dream likely out of reach. Outside, the sun’s heat turns our car into an oven. Halden’s main street, 50 meters wide, is lined with aging, large cars. Road signs are sparse, but the friendliness of the locals makes navigating easy.
We pass Wallendbeen almost without noticing. A discreet sign points to "Corang" on the right. The real bush begins here, where red dirt tracks stretch to the horizon, sometimes without a single gas pump in sight. In this setting, we come upon an oasis: our "Aussie Bed and Breakfast Inn," 3.5 hours from Sydney and 6 hours from Melbourne.
Colleen welcomes us warmly and enthusiastically. Her house, a former farm turned into a B&B, exudes authenticity. Inside, furnished in an old-fashioned style and decorated with family photos, a small bar immediately catches the eye. On their remaining 100 hectares, Greg and Colleen grow grain, harvest hay, and graze sheep from the neighboring farm 5 kilometers away. The space here feels immense but almost modest compared to the massive stations spanning half a million hectares.
Their property features a swimming pool, a tennis court, horses, and a flower garden—a striking contrast to the harsh conditions faced by early settlers. Greg and Colleen, after a life of hard work, have never given up. Their home is impeccably maintained, and their hospitality shines.
After a day under the scorching sun, nothing beats a dip in the pool. In the evening, leaning on the bar, Greg shares his nostalgia for the past. He reminisces about the mutual support of earlier times and laments the decline of true Australian values, which he believes are missing in places like Byron Bay, where people often rely on government aid. Greg, weathered by the great outdoors and a life of labor, still looks like an unstoppable man. Dressed smartly for the occasion, he embodies the generosity that defines our entire stay.
Colleen, always busy but attentive, makes us feel at home in her fragrant kitchen, where homemade bread fills the air with warm aromas. Through the window, an infinite landscape stretches under a breathtakingly beautiful sky. Dinner, served with placemats and silverware, reflects the care she puts into hosting us. Their kindness transforms this evening into an unforgettable moment.
The next day, Colleen shows us the region, steeped in history with its early pioneers, gold seekers, and bushrangers. In Young, a charming town marked by the 1950s, we visit her son Gérard's thriving agricultural equipment business. Thanks to the falling Australian dollar, meat and wheat exports are flourishing, enabling Gérard to build a stunning villa on a hill and plant his first vineyards—Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, reflecting Australia’s new passion for wine.
At Young’s winery, the scent and ambiance recall monastic cellars. Jenny, proudly wearing a cowboy hat, shares her joy in leaving Sydney to embrace this rustic life. Her barrels hold treasures: Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
Back at the B&B, another swim refreshes us before Greg suggests an excursion to spot kangaroos, followed by a drink at Wallendbeen’s pub. In his large 4x4, we explore his land, but the iconic animal remains elusive, much to Greg’s disappointment.
Wallendbeen’s pub, a former colonial-style hotel, retains a unique atmosphere. Greg, respected by everyone, introduces us to the landlady and the regulars. The mood quickly livens up. Amid beers, laughter, and impromptu photos, the pub’s quiet routine gives way to an impromptu party. The weathered faces of the regulars seem to tell a thousand stories, and the landlady’s grandmother, drawn by the commotion, joins in, adding an extra touch of authenticity.
Back at Colleen and Greg’s, a barbecue on the terrace wraps up our day. As Greg grills steaks, the aroma of sizzling meat fills the air, a symbol of the authentic Australia that has welcomed us so warmly.
Aussie Farmstay, Colleen and Greg Hines, Wallendbeen, NSW, Australia - Map
Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier River, L'Etoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cévennes in the mountains of southern France. At the crossroads of the GR®7, GR®70 Stevenson Trail, GR®72, GR®700 Regordane Way (St Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cévenol, Montagne Ardéchoise, Margeride, and many day loop hikes. Ideal for a relaxing and hiking stay.
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