Le Rendez-vous The generous welcome from Jean-Claude Berger

This marks my third return to Tucson, each time greeted by the spontaneous and heartfelt welcome of Jean-Claude and his wife, Martha. Jean-Claude hails from St Dizier in the Haute-Marne department of eastern France, while Martha is a native of Hermosillo in the Sonora province of Mexico. Their quaint Bed & Breakfast, “Le Rendez-vous,” may not be grand in size, but it brims with comfort and charm. It boasts a spacious bedroom, a balcony with a view of Lemmon Mountain in the Coronado National Forest, a swimming pool, and a large deck overlooking Tucson.

Our journey began in Jean-Claude’s sleek Mercedes, heading towards Fort Lowell Ave, where his French restaurant is situated. With Jean-Claude, every experience is unique. He invites you into his world, his space, and his vibrant energy. He is mature yet sprightly, always ready for new opportunities, investments, and challenges. Being in his company is a lesson in life itself. He teaches you to see the bigger picture, seize opportunities, maintain a positive outlook, and keep a youthful spirit. His approach to life is a blend of organized maturity and non-conformity.

Jean-Claude is like a “big brother” to me. It seems he has managed to harness the best of both France and the USA, two countries I’ve always considered complementary.

On Sunday morning at 8 a.m., the high Mexican mass is held at the Catholic Church of St Augustine. Mariachis, musicians in full folkloric attire, accompany the sermons with their stringed instruments and songs. The church is bustling, and I find myself immersed in a different culture. The fervor of the faithful is as palpable as their passion for the shiny, new 4x4s parked outside. Martha thrives in this environment, where she finds the humanity and warmth sometimes overshadowed by business and networking in the United States.

The day continues with family time, children’s laughter, singing, conversation, and a hearty Mexican meal complemented by fine wine. Celebrating in simplicity and spontaneity is a Mexican specialty.

Tucson is home to a significant Mexican population, with immigration continuing to grow. Mexico is just an hour’s drive from Tucson, with Nogalès, a bustling market town, marking the border.

Back at the B&B, Jean-Claude takes us to visit his friend, Father Henry of the Benedictine monastery “Holy Trinity Monastery” in the small town of St David, an hour from Tucson. Father Henry, dressed in white and beaming, welcomes us in flawless French, inviting us for coffee. A radiant man of 46, he manages this small monastery, home to seven monks, with wisdom and a strong commitment to fulfilling his six-year contract as father prior. The community welcomes visitors for extended stays, offering full board at a nominal rate ($40/day in 2003).

Have you heard of Tombstone? This iconic western village has been the backdrop for several films. It’s a popular gathering spot for itinerant bikers, many of whom ride Harley-Davidsons. The main street has retained much of its 1852 charm, save for the tarmac that has replaced the dry, dusty earth.

On a windy day, it feels like a scene straight out of a western movie, with tumbleweeds rolling past, cowboys on the rough plank sidewalks, and a bustling saloon where beer flows freely to the rhythm of country music.

Just a short distance away lies the cemetery where Billy the Kid and the Mully brothers were laid to rest. Like many others, they met untimely ends - hanged, murdered, lynched, or succumbed to thirst. They are now etched into the annals of American history and heritage.

Wondering what to see in Tucson? I recommend a detour-free lunch at “Sweet Tomatoes.” For a mere $7.30, you can indulge in an array of fresh vegetables, delectable pastas, and irresistible desserts like the warm, bite-sized chocolate cake served with vanilla cream and melted chocolate. The establishment is clean, spacious, and filled with friendly faces. The food is of excellent quality. If only such a place existed in Europe… You’ll find it on Stone Ave, right across from Tucson Mall.

On Oracle Ave stands the “Bum Steer,” a large burgundy-red shed reminiscent of Ohio’s farms. Inside, a massive three-tiered saloon awaits. It’s a veritable suspended flea market, brimming with all sorts of items. Having been open for 37 years, it’s a must-visit spot.

The “clean” cowboys frequent the “Maverick” on Wilmont Ave near Speedway Ave. Everyone there is dressed to impress, though the atmosphere is less relaxed than in Tombstone, where friendliness and good nature prevail.

In the Cherokee Indian region of North Carolina, I encountered “Bluegrass” style cowboys. They may not be young, but they possess a remarkable strength and a fire in their bellies!

What I appreciate about Tucson is the spaciousness - the wide roads, ample parking lots, bike paths, sidewalks, and expansive spaces like university campuses, the desert, and the sky. The open-mindedness of the people here towards new opportunities is also commendable. The concept of El Dorado has always lingered in the minds of Americans and is deeply ingrained in their ethos.

Jean-Claude Berger, a B&B owner I had the pleasure of meeting, exudes a welcoming generosity. Interactions between innkeepers provide opportunities for introspection, learning, and rejuvenation. Hospitality is a living, evolving entity. It’s up to us to uncover its magic.

Le Rendez-vous Bed & Breakfast, Tucson, Arizona - Map