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Golden Dreams B&B The Skiers' Meeting Point |
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As night falls, we find ourselves in thick darkness on the winding road from Vancouver. 111km further north and we arrive at Whistler, a bit like Val d'Isère, where skiing reigns supreme. Over the last twenty years, the town has experienced a real boom and has become one of the most popular ski resorts in North America.
Ann and Terry Spence have a beautiful villa in the residential area near Alta Lake and Rainbow Park, preserved from developers, where Terry took us this morning along the "Valley Trail". A small path winding through the woods, used by locals for mushroom picking. The sun is still shining, making it seem as if it never rains here or, as the Quebecois say: we are lucky.
Ann and Terry have a thriving business, and they are happy, which is evident in their home and in their interaction with others. There is a lot of positivity and open-mindedness. They have been in the hospitality business for 15 years now.
At the time, Ann tells us, it was enough to inform the city and neighbors that we were opening a Bed and Breakfast. Now, everything is much different, the requirements are strict and costly.
In the afternoon, we head to Pemberton, a small town 35 km north of Whistler. At the end of the road before the Indian reservations and the trails used by the logging trucks, Pemberton reminds me of Willow Creek in Northern California, where gold prospectors used to go once every two weeks with their old pick-up trucks to stock up on supplies.
The Indigenous people are in the streets, somewhat aimless. They live in Mount Currie, in trailers and ramshackle cabins.
When you pass through Pemberton, stop at the "Pemberton General Store" on Prospect Street, a family shop selling clothing ranging from trapper hats to lumberjack shirts, moccasins, and thick winter coats. You can even buy a guitar and ask the owner for advice on getting to know the area better.
This is where gold nuggets were exchanged for blankets. Don’t venture further north without doing your last-minute shopping in Pemberton. The municipal library is very useful and welcoming, where you can check your emails.
About 40 km from Pemberton are the Meagher Hot Springs, terraced hot springs where you can take a dip for $5. The dirt and gravel road is not ideal and a bit long for a regular car like ours. The 4x4s and pick-ups speed along without hesitation, and just like in Australia on the vast NT tracks, you have to pull aside and let them pass.
In this valley, on the flat and fertile land, potatoes are grown. There are some beautiful old farms with large wooden hay barns painted in burgundy, surrounded by magnificent snow-capped mountains.
The decor in the Bed & Breakfast kitchen is reminiscent of a little red riding hood's cottage, very pleasant just like the living room with its fireplace. Terry, still young and athletic, is a ski instructor during the season. He works 7 days a week with clients from the USA, Japan, and Canada. It's a very popular and quite chic resort, and his clients are wealthy—some even arrive by plane to Vancouver and then by helicopter straight to the slopes.
Tonight, there's an ice hockey game at Whistler's new stadium. Terry is part of the team but won't be playing tonight. The average age of the players is 50 years, and you can hardly tell, as they are so fast and skilled skaters. They are helmeted and bundled up like American football players. There aren't many spectators, but Terry knows everyone, and very quickly I feel at ease. An environment far from the classic tourist paths. My “gold prospector” side is happy; I’m in my element in Canada.
The road leading to Lillooet, about 100 km north of Pemberton, takes us through the Canada of lakes, glaciers, mountains, colorful forests, and rivers where bears and elks come to drink. Lillooet, with a population of 5000, is worth the detour, surrounded by reserves, most inhabitants are of Indigenous origin. Descendants of the "St'at'imc", a tribe that has lived on this land for over 9000 years.
John 'The Wild Man'
His dented Stetson, red polka-dot scarf, broken nose, John Millar, a hardened and almost wild man, came from Texas to find peace in the Coast Mountains, the mountains of Canada's west coast. Offering a room to people traveling from Squamish to Pemberton along the Pemberton Trail, John was one of the friendliest trappers.
His inn became very well known and reputed for its meals, with visitors often enjoying dishes they couldn't find anywhere else, including bear stew.
Golden Dreams B&B, Whistler Mountain Village, BC, Canada - Map 
Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier, L'Étoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, nestled between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cévennes in the mountains of Southern France. Positioned at the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Chemin Stevenson, GR®72, GR®700 Voie Régordane (Saint Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cévenol, Montagne Ardéchoise, and Margeride. It offers numerous loop routes for hiking and day-long cycling excursions. Ideal for a relaxing stay.
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