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Karpniki A getaway between forests and lakes |
     
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Between Poznan and the Baltic Sea, somewhere in the middle of pine forests on the shore of a lake, lies a beautiful chalet surrounded by several outbuildings; welcome to "Karpniki" hosted by Mr. & Mrs. Sloniewscy.
Mrs. Barbara Sloniewska was an environmental protection teacher at the technical high school in Gniezno, she is refined and cultured; always attentive to ensure everything runs smoothly with great kindness. In 1994, she and her husband decided to venture into agritourism by building a magnificent chalet that could accommodate around ten people on a full-board basis with produce from the region or from their garden, which is right in front of our room.
Most of their guests are Polish and come for fishing, mushroom picking, hiking, or simply to recharge. Meals are served at a shared table in a relaxed atmosphere. The decor is simple, and the contact is direct, as if we were friends rather than customers.
I struggle a bit to participate in the conversation as my Polish is limited to a few common words like "dziekuje, dzien dobry, do widzenia, dobranoc, jak sie panienka czuje," and finally "smacznego." Agnieszka, who speaks almost perfect French with a slight Slavic accent, occasionally translates some sentences so I can get an idea of the conversation, but my goodness, Polish is complicated for a Belgian-French-Greek!
The 65-year-old hostess doesn't let her age stop her from having future plans for her "dom goscinny" (guesthouse); expansion of the dining area, new rooms, beautiful stables for horses, etc. She tells us that her guesthouse is a bit expensive for the region; however, the prices seem very reasonable considering the hearty meals and the beautiful environment. German neighbors, who have a much higher purchasing power, often come here for the weekend; they always pay in cash but speak no more Polish than I do.
In exchange for our stay here, her daughter and son-in-law will come next year. In the meantime, thanks to my laptop, I can show her pictures of L'Etoile and its surroundings. France, which seemed far away only a few years ago, now feels closer and more attractive thanks to the country's entry into the European Union, making us feel more connected within the same community.
The weather is blue, as it always seems to be when I am in Poland. The wind is blowing and is cold, even glacial; could it be coming from Siberia? Nature is still preserved here, fish abound in the lakes, and silence reigns in the woods, making you want to take a long nap. In these vast pine and birch forests, more than one mushroom picker has gotten lost; an area of 60,000 square kilometers of woods with, from time to time, a path for lumberjacks and the few isolated inhabitants like "Karpniki." Mr. Bogdan Sloniewski actually came to pick us up from the small village of Kwiejce. Then by an unmarked trail, we reached their peaceful haven.
Tomorrow morning, I have to wake up early to accompany two fishermen from Gliwice in the south of the country. They come here every year and have their routines. They are businessmen who appear to be prosperous and who, here, reconnect with their roots and spend some intimate moments with their partners.
The iron boat doesn't steer easily; the current towards the small open sluice gate and a long pole as the only means of propulsion exhaust our city fisherman who struggles to reach open water. Fishing has never been my thing, but I must admit that here, in such good company, and with another sunny autumn day, I am thoroughly enjoying being carried away in their paradise.
The pigeons coo, the dogs are calm, and the horses graze in the corral. Poland seems to be resting after the long difficult years of its history. The small village shop is still a witness to the communist era, where people queued to eventually share two bananas and a loaf of poor-quality bread. Yes, in Poland now we can breathe! Agnieszka tells me, even though she is only 26. We can see and think beyond today or, at best, tomorrow...
This is the second time I visit this beautiful country, and I feel good here; the people are welcoming and spontaneous, they are full of energy! The European community became richer on May 1st, 2004!
Karpniki, Guesthouse and table d'hôtes, Barbara & Bogdan Sloniewscy, Kwiejce 35, Chelst - Map 
Former holiday hotel with a garden along the Allier, L'Etoile Guest House is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent between Lozere, Ardeche, and the Cevennes in the mountains of Southern France. At the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Stevenson Path, GR®72, GR®700 Regordane Way (St Gilles), GR®470 Allier River springs and gorges, GRP® Cevenol, Ardechoise Mountains, Margeride. Numerous loop trails for hiking and one-day biking excursions. Ideal for a relaxing and hiking getaway.
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