Siroua Inn: On the Road to the High Atlas
Hopping from one shared taxi to another, I made my way from Zagora to Taliouine, passing through Agdz, Ouarzazate, and Taznakht along the road to Agadir. This local mode of transport is both highly efficient and incredibly inexpensive. The secret is simply snagging a seat near the front to avoid motion sickness on the winding mountain roads—especially when riding in one of the classic Peugeot 504 station wagons. On the stretch to Taznakht, twelve of us squeezed in, four to a bench. I sat up front beside the driver, who steadily gripped the wheel while his neighbor handled the gear shifts. The rhythmic Berber music playing from worn-out cassettes kept us all cheerfully patient. Despite the frequent traffic accidents in Morocco, there is a prevailing sense that we are all safely in Allah's hands. So, we drive on, and life continues...
Arriving by pure chance in Taznakht on market day, I was instantly plunged into a vibrant atmosphere straight out of a classic film or a Tintin comic book. I had a half-hour wait for my next taxi to fill up with passengers—just enough time to catch my breath and, more importantly, savor a delicious tagine for a mere 20 dirhams on a small bistro terrace, sitting right in the heart of the bustling souk surrounded by lively carpet vendors.
Finally, I reached Taliouine. Auberge Siroua is tucked away on a quiet side street just off the main avenue. Pushing through the large glass doors, I was reunited with Mohammed Gheris, the owner, and his two dear friends: Monssef, the artist, and Hamid, the philosopher. All three were comfortably settled in the spacious dining room, solving the world's problems over hot tea and sweet biscuits. They are three distinct personalities with whom I would share many delightful meals, long walks, and fascinating visits. I felt a bit like d'Artagnan proudly joining the Three Musketeers.
Mohammed, affectionately known as "Med," seamlessly balances life as an innkeeper and a university professor in Marrakech, where he lives with his wife, Samia, and their two children. He holds a progressive vision of a modern Morocco, deeply open to the wider world. I could easily picture him as a fiercely independent journalist. He actually shares a few striking traits with my father: he is endlessly curious, devoid of prejudice, highly principled, and perhaps just a touch naive. I was incredibly touched by his warm invitation.
Monssef is truly quite the character! An artist and intellectual at heart, he frequently drew us into his wonderfully surreal perspective of the world. A fantastic travel companion, he joined us for several days of exploration. Hamid, on the other hand, was much quieter. Older and exuding a profound serenity, he seemed content to let the younger men take center stage. A gentle walk in our company was more than enough for him. Besides, as a former receptionist at a grand hotel in Ouarzazate, he already has countless friends in Marrakech.
Despite the persistent drought, the valleys surrounding Taliouine remain lush and green, and daily life in the small villages is incredibly vibrant. There are always children playing and women hard at work in the fields; their warm smiles and genuine kindness deeply moved me at every encounter. Occasionally, men relaxing on a cafe terrace would spontaneously invite me over to share their couscous.
Following narrow dirt paths, we wandered from one village to the next, casually crossing the shallow river by foot. Nearby, three women were washing laundry while a man peacefully passed by leading his mule. Later, we enjoyed a picnic on a shaded terrace overlooking the valley, surrounded by blooming almond trees. There, Mohammed proudly showed us a beautifully preserved little synagogue and a stunning, abandoned Kasbah just waiting to be restored. Naturally, grand ideas and projects immediately began to flow...
On our way to Marrakech, we made a stop in Taznakht at a friend's antique shop. The entrance to his home was discreetly hidden behind a massive, hanging carpet—a truly magical place where only close friends gather to drink tea. Brimming with pride over his latest discovery, the antique dealer showed us an authentic Berber djellaba from the 19th century, worth a small fortune. Here, hospitality is profoundly genuine; relationships have not been tainted by artificial mass tourism.
A few kilometers past Ouarzazate, a small road veering to the right leads to Ait Ben Haddou, an awe-inspiring Kasbah that completely covers a massive hillside. Mohammed happens to know the owner of "La Kasbah" hotel, located right across the valley with an unobstructed, spectacular view of the historical monuments. It is a major tourist hub, with the main street packed full of small shops selling souvenirs and antiques to travelers from all over the globe. The owner, Abderrahmane Tebbou, kindly invited me to spend the last two days of my Moroccan trip at his spacious hotel. Though he was incredibly friendly, he was also very busy, so we didn't get to talk much. Those final two days served as a perfect, restful transition between Africa and Europe.
Before tackling the high mountain passes, we made a quick stop at Ahmed and Catherine's for tea and delicate pastries. This Franco-Moroccan couple has opened a charming bed and breakfast perched right on the mountainside. We settled comfortably on their terrace, soaking in a magnificent panoramic view of the valley below. The interior is impeccably kept and deeply inviting, featuring a picturesque inner courtyard that beautifully connects the guest rooms.
Mohammed Gheris possesses a truly unparalleled sense of hospitality, and we spent four absolutely wonderful days together in Marrakech. His entire family is incredibly kind, and I thoroughly enjoyed every moment spent with them. Saloua, Mohammed's sister, and Samia constantly spoiled us with their delicious home-cooked meals and warm presence in the kitchen.
Mohammed and Saloua's father is a retired Colonel with a profound knowledge of North African history. We engaged in deep, fascinating discussions about Egypt and the 1956 nationalization by Nasser. This is a highly significant date for my own family, as my grandfather lost his entire fortune in a matter of hours before fleeing to Belgium. He was the proud owner of the Hotel de Paris in Cairo—a prestigious Grand Palace where leading intellectuals and businessmen once gathered. That elegant 1930s atmosphere can still be felt when strolling through the historic streets of Cairo and Alexandria.
Just two streets away lives another close friend, Khalid, who expertly guided us through the Medina and the hidden, mysterious corners of Marrakech. The bustling crowds here don't seem to bother the storks that nest peacefully on the rooftops above. Khalid shared stories of his 17 years living in Canada and his upcoming move to Jakarta, Indonesia, where his architect girlfriend eagerly awaits him. He is an exceptionally interesting man, and our conversations were thoroughly captivating!
The following morning, Mohammed thoughtfully arranged for me to visit the Business University of Marrakech to speak with his students about my entrepreneurial vision and the philosophy behind L'Etoile. Spending half an hour in each of the two classes allowed me to dive into a completely different world and test the clarity of my ideas. The students were incredibly open, engaged, and full of questions. You could instantly feel their strong motivation and vibrant energy to connect with the global community. Once again, thanks to my exceptional host, I experienced a profoundly enriching moment!
Auberge Siroua, Taliouine, Province of Taroudant, Morocco -
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