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Siroua Inn On the Road to the High Atlas
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From taxi to taxi, I made my way to Taliouine from Zagora via Agdz, Ouarzazate, and Taznakht on the road to Agadir. This mode of transport is very efficient and inexpensive. You just need to find yourself a spot towards the front to avoid getting car sick in the winding roads when in the mountains (especially in the Peugeot 504 wagons). Between Taznakht, there were 12 of us, 4 per bench. I was in the front with the driver, who held the wheel, his neighbor who shifted gears, and the Berber music coming from those old cassettes that made us all patient. Anyway, even though there are many car accidents in Morocco, we are all in Allah's hands. So onward, life goes on...
Arriving by chance in Taznakht on market day, I was immediately immersed in an atmosphere worthy of the best movies or the best Tintin adventures. Half an hour's wait for my next taxi (the time it took to fill up), enough to catch my breath and, above all, to enjoy a delicious tagine for 20 dirhams on the terrace of a small bistro in the middle of the souk among carpet vendors.
Finally, Taliouine. Auberge Siroua is located in a small street on the left off the main avenue. I pass through the large glass door and find myself in my second meeting with Mohammed Gheris, the owner, and his two friends Monssef the artist and Hamid the philosopher. All three comfortably settled in this large restaurant room, reshaping the world around tea and biscuits. Three personalities with whom I had a lot of pleasure sharing meals, walks, and visits. I was a bit like d'Artagnan joining the three Musketeers.
Mohammed, called "Med," is both an innkeeper and a university professor in Marrakech. He lives in the big city with his wife Samia and their two children. He has a vision of a modern Morocco that is open to the outside world. I could easily see him as an independent journalist; he has some similarities with my father: curious, without prejudice, upright, and a bit naive. I really appreciated his invitation!
Monssef is quite a character! An artist and intellectual, he led us into a somewhat surreal view of the world. A good companion, he accompanied us for a few days on our journey. Hamid, on the other hand, didn't say much. Older, he exudes a certain serenity, as if he were letting the younger ones take center stage... The walk in our company was enough for him, and anyway, he has so many friends in Marrakech, having once been a receptionist at a large hotel in Ouarzazate.
Despite the drought, the valleys around Taliouine are very green, and life in the small villages is very active. Always lots of children playing and women working; their smiles and kindness touch me every time we meet them. Some men, sitting at a café terrace, invite me to share their couscous.
Following the small dirt paths, we go from one village to another, crossing the river by ford. There, three women are washing their laundry, and a man passes by with his mule. After the picnic, in the shade of blooming almond trees on a terrace overlooking the valley, Mohammed shows us a very pretty little synagogue and an old abandoned Kasbah that only needs restoration, and immediately the projects start flowing...
On the way to Marrakech, we stop in Taznakht at a friend's antique shop. The entrance to his house is hidden by a large hanging carpet; a magical place where only friends of friends drink tea. Very proud of his latest find, the antique dealer shows us a Berber djellaba dating from the 19th century that is worth a small fortune. Here, the welcome is genuine; "artificial tourism" has not polluted the relationships between people.
A few kilometers after Ouarzazate, there is a small road on the right that leads to Ait Ben Haddou, a very impressive Kasbah covering an entire hillside. There, Mohammed knows the owner of the hotel "La Kasbah" located just opposite, with an unobstructed view of the historical monuments. A big tourist business par excellence, with the main street full of small shops selling souvenirs and antiques to tourists from around the world. Abderrahmane Tebbou, the owner, invites me to stay the last two days of my trip to Morocco in his spacious hotel. Very kind but too busy, I won't have much opportunity to see him. These will be two days of rest and transition between Africa and Europe.
Before crossing the high mountains, a little stop at Ahmed & Catherine's for tea and small cakes. This Franco-Moroccan couple has opened a charming bed and breakfast on the side of the mountain. We are comfortably settled on the terrace with a magnificent view of the valley in front of us. The interior is well-kept and very pleasant, a small inner courtyard full of charm opens onto the rooms.
Mohammed Gheris truly has a sense of hospitality, and we spent 4 wonderful days together in Marrakech. His whole family is incredibly kind, and I enjoyed being around each of them. Saloua (Mohammed's sister) and Samia, whom I met in the kitchen, spoiled us with their delicious dishes and their presence.
The father of Mohammed and Saloua is a retired Colonel and knows well the history of North Africa. We delve into discussions with him about Egypt and the nationalization in 1956 by Nasser. An important date in my family, as my grandfather lost all his fortune within a few hours before leaving for Belgium. He owned the Hotel de Paris in Cairo; a prestigious Grand Palace where intellectuals and businessmen gathered. An atmosphere of the thirties that can still be felt when strolling through the streets of Cairo and Alexandria.
Two streets away lives another friend: Khalid, with whom we visited the Medina and the hidden, mysterious places of Marrakech. The crowd here doesn't frighten the storks that quietly nest above. Khalid tells me about his 17 years in Canada and his upcoming departure for Jakarta, Indonesia, where his architect girlfriend is waiting for him. He is an extremely interesting guy with whom we had fascinating discussions!
The next morning, Mohammed arranged for me to visit the Business University of Marrakech to talk to his students about my vision of business and "L'Etoile." Half an hour in each of the two classes allowed me to dive into another world and see how coherent my opinion was. The students are open and interested. The questions come fast, and you can directly feel their motivation and energy to open up to the world. Once again, I had a very enriching moment thanks to my host!
Auberge Siroua, Taliouine, Province of Taroudant, Morocco - Map 
Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier, L'Étoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, nestled between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cévennes in the mountains of Southern France. Positioned at the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Chemin Stevenson, GR®72, GR®700 Voie Régordane (Saint Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cévenol, Montagne Ardéchoise, and Margeride. It offers numerous loop routes for hiking and day-long cycling excursions. Ideal for a relaxing stay.
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