Flying L Ranch: Farmers, Hunters, Hippies, and Gold Prospectors
From Prairie City, it takes a solid four-hour drive to finally reach the mighty Columbia River, which serves as the natural border between Oregon and Washington State. The journey is spectacular: Highway 26 closely hugs the winding John Day River up to Daysville, before Highway 19 takes over, leading straight toward Condon.
Passing through the tiny hamlet of Service Creek—where Jana and Rich Zwicker warmly run a combined café, restaurant, B&B, grocery store, and raft rental known as the "Service Creek Stage Stop"—the road gradually climbs. Soon, I reach the high plains where sprawling fields of gigantic wind turbines stand proudly against the sky, before the road dips back down toward Wasco and Biggs.
The air here carries a dry, deeply invigorating cold, and the majestic electricity-generating turbines spin at full capacity. In this part of the country, electricity isn't a luxury; it is abundantly and affordably provided by massive river dams and cutting-edge clean technology.
After crossing the Columbia River at The Dalles—where the water stretches roughly a kilometer wide, expanding to a full mile before meeting the Pacific Ocean—I joined Highway 14. This road winds through Lyle, Bingen, and finally White Salmon. This feels like the very last outpost of "modern civilization" before veering north onto Highway 141. From there, passing through Trout Lake and BZ Corner, the road leads into the secluded, pristine valleys of Glenwood.
The landscape opens up into a gently rolling plateau. On the horizon, the snow-capped peak of Mount Adams (towering at 12,276 feet, or roughly 4,000 meters) rises majestically like a painted masterpiece. Scattered across the land are working farms, rustic ranches, trailers, and solitary log cabins. Two sharp rifle shots ring out in the distance, a stark reminder that hunting season is in full swing. Americans in these parts have a deep fondness for what they call ATVs (All-Terrain Vehicles); they use them for everything from rounding up stray cattle to navigating rugged hunting trails. Once the heavy winter snows arrive, the ATVs are quickly swapped out for snowmobiles.
Glenwood has the fascinating, quiet aura of a semi-ghost town. Nevertheless, it clings to life with two lively café-bar-restaurants, a solitary gas pump, a general store, a charming little post office that is definitely worth a visit, and a small school with a handful of students. Enormous conifers—towering redwoods and sequoias—cast long shadows over the wooden cabins, some of which sit dilapidated and abandoned. Winter in Glenwood is long and unforgiving, with deep snow covering the ground for months. As the local Native American proverb wisely warns: "If the white man gathers a lot of firewood, it means the winter will be very harsh!"
About a mile down the road, tucked away on the right, lies the "Flying L Ranch." It is a beautiful "Country-Inn Bed & Breakfast" managed with immense care by Jeff Berend and Jacquie Perry.
They have been here for six years, warmly hosting diverse groups of hikers, couples seeking peaceful retreats, and corporate seminars. Most of their guests make the two-hour drive from Portland. They occasionally welcome international travelers—a few Japanese, Australians, Britons, and Canadians—but French visitors remain quite rare.
The Ranch spans a magnificent 80 acres and features 9 wooden cabins, including a large main lodge. Inside the lodge, a spacious, comfortable living room centers around a crackling fireplace and a beautiful period piano. The instrument possesses a resonance and touch that perfectly suits my playing style, providing me with endless hours of musical pleasure.
The living room's massive bay windows offer an unparalleled, unobstructed view of Mount Adams, as well as the ranch dogs peacefully napping in the sun-drenched prairie outside.
After a hearty breakfast—fresh orange juice, walnut bread, fruit salad, lightly sautéed new potatoes, scrambled eggs, and strong coffee—Jeff invited me to head into the forest with his heavy-duty truck and his faithful dog, Bill, to chop firewood.
Jeff is planning to visit La Bastide-Puylaurent next May and is already eager to learn a few words of French. It is far from easy for him; he admits it sounds like he has a hot potato in his mouth, especially when trying to roll the famous French "r". We debated the exact translation of "sit" for the dog, or the subtle differences between "good" and "well". French is undeniably a complex language! But Jeff perseveres; he is determined to present a great, friendly image of America when he arrives in France.
In every cabin, a rustic wood stove provides warmth, supplemented by a small, highly efficient, and completely silent electric heater in each bedroom. All the firewood is sourced directly from their expansive property, but it requires grueling labor. Cutting, cleaning, splitting, hauling, stacking, and drying... It is a task where one simply cannot count the hours. Yet, the environment is so incredibly pleasant that spending the entire day working outdoors feels more like a privilege than a chore.
Jacquie had just returned from a week in Mexico, taking a well-deserved break to decompress from her highly active lifestyle. She is in fantastic shape and brimming with fresh ideas. Her specialty lies in organizing corporate seminars and working groups. With deep connections in Portland and the surrounding areas, she has a brilliant, strategic mindset. She is a fascinating woman with a huge heart, welcoming me instantly as if I were part of her own family. She possesses that broad, visionary perspective shared by all successful entrepreneurs. I am incredibly curious to see what she will make of L'Etoile when she visits next May.
To do any significant shopping, one must drive back down to the Columbia River, heading either to White Salmon on the Washington side or across to Hood River on the Oregon side. Interestingly, in Oregon, gas station attendants still pump your fuel for you, whereas in Washington, it is strictly self-service. Hood River is much larger than White Salmon and Bingen combined. To get there, we crossed an old suspension toll bridge (which costs 75 cents, or 65 cents if you purchase coupons in advance).
Down there, you can find absolutely everything needed for the diverse local population: farmers, ranchers, hunters, aging hippie communities, and modern-day gold prospectors. These are the hardy folks who live deep in the vast forests, hidden valleys, and along the winding "creeks." A quick glance at the clientele tells the whole story: long, untamed beards, heavy army boots, and massive, dust-covered pickup trucks with happy dogs riding in the back alongside the groceries.
The Americans from the original hippie generation are now in their fifties, yet many still proudly sport that classic "Neil Young" look. While they may not travel the world as much as they once did, they frequently gather as couples from highly varied backgrounds. They invite one another over for tea or dinner; one might cultivate a small vineyard, while another crafts homemade wine or aperitifs. Conversations effortlessly shift from sharp critiques of current government policies to sharing the latest recipe for the excellent cherry clafoutis that Elisabeth baked for us.
And what does their visiting French friend think of the current American political position? "Not much of an idea..." I reply with a smile. Perhaps true diplomacy is no longer the strict monopoly of "qualified diplomats." These international exchanges between innkeepers offer a remarkably authentic way to share ideas, deeply appreciate one another's cultures, and—why not—help build stronger, more genuine partnerships between people across the globe.
Flying L Ranch in Glenwood, Trout Lake, Mt Adams, Washington State, USA -
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