Old Farm B&B: Indian Summer on Vancouver Island
As large as Belgium, Vancouver Island deeply retains the rich history of the river and forest-dwelling Indigenous peoples in its very atmosphere. Are their ancient spirits still lingering here? The friendly American-style society seems somewhat at odds with these winding roads that don't quite match the vibrant fall foliage. Does mass tourism truly exist here? One might wonder what mindset is required to truly grasp the essence of this magical place, perhaps by asking the Indigenous man living quietly in his mobile home...
After a bus ride from Vancouver City and a smooth ferry crossing to Nanaimo, our arrival on this giant island perfectly matched the gentle climate, already opening up to the mildness of an Indian summer. Barbara and George MacFarlane, the proud owners of the Old Farm B&B for many years, welcomed us with warm smiles and genuine simplicity into their expansive, century-old home. Both are incredibly relaxed and inviting.
From our room—typically reserved for honeymooners—we enjoyed a sweeping view of the bay and, in the distance, a massive log yard where giant tree trunks were piled high, ready for the sawmills. The rugged spirit of Canada is undeniably present here.
Over a glass of Cherry Point or Pinot Blanc Auxerrois, the couple shared the fascinating story of their journey to Vancouver Island. Their pasts span the globe: Barbara spent time in Zambia where her father worked as a mining engineer, and George enjoyed a successful career as a renowned journalist in Toronto. They have been running their lovely B&B in Cowichan Bay for eight years, remaining constantly attentive and available to their guests. Their breakfasts are meticulously prepared and elegantly served on embroidered tablecloths with fine silver cutlery.
A blueprint lay open on the dining room table, detailing plans for a new, better-designed kitchen—though one that would require a substantial financial investment. Barbara was already dreaming of it, with George happily following along. Listening to them, I couldn't help but think of L'Etoile and the familiar trap of investing too quickly to chase a dream...
At 78, George remains remarkably youthful and incredibly open-minded. Sitting on the edge of the sofa with a coffee in hand, he was genuinely interested in every topic of conversation. His laid-back demeanor perfectly complemented the extreme comfort of their interior and the impeccably maintained garden.
We visited Duncan, located about 10 kilometers further north. It is a striking city where beautifully crafted totems of all sizes are proudly displayed throughout the town center. Suddenly, a freight train over a kilometer long rolled through, its horn blaring steadily as the massive convoy passed by at a slow, rhythmic pace. It felt like stepping straight into a scene from Tintin in America.
Like many Canadians, the MacFarlanes plan to escape the harsh winter by heading to the warm, sunny beaches of Hawaii. Amazingly, they manage to have a couple of friends take over the B&B in their absence—a truly brilliant system!
Still feeling the effects of jet lag, I found myself sitting in their 'casibot'—a cozy, round covered terrace—at around six o'clock in the morning. Gazing out over the bay, the wild idea crossed my mind to navigate the island by canoe, much like I did twenty years ago when I met gold prospectors after five days of trekking along Eagle Creek, a forgotten little river in Northern California's Redwood Forest. Sometimes you just have to take the time to explore, so as not to miss a single drop of the local atmosphere.
The village of Cowichan Bay is a tight-knit fishing community surrounded by lush farms spread along the coastline, sitting peacefully across the bay under the majestic shadow of Mount Tzouhalem. Duncan, an important stop on the E&N Railway, truly began to develop in 1887 when its station was built, rapidly attracting small businesses and new settlers.
Today, that historic station is a proud part of the national heritage. Furthermore, over 80 spectacular totems have been erected throughout the town, with each one vividly depicting a legend, a myth, or the intricate family life of the Cowichan Indigenous people.
Old Farm B&B, Barbara and George MacFarlane, Cowichan Bay, BC, Canada - Map
Copyright©etoile.fr