Family Hiking on the Cevenol Trail

Magis Family It was during the second half of August that we decided to go on a family trip with our two children, aged 17 and 14, to "do" the Cévenol. The idea of traveling backpacking, walking from lodge to lodge, excited us from the start. For us, it was a first. The idea was initiated by a walking friend who, while recounting his hiking adventures, got us eager to try it out.

L’Etoile Guest House But where to go? This was the first problem that seemed difficult to solve, as the requirements were significant: a hike through a country that wasn’t too flat or too mountainous, where we would have a good chance of nice weather without it being too hot; the idea of a loop appealed to us more than a long straight line, and we had no desire to walk along roads, even country ones. Very quickly, we settled on the Cévenol, a great hiking trail (GRP), which presented to us THE perfect compromise: walks of around 15 km per day on marked trails, in nature that is still intact and preserved.

Departure point chosen: La Bastide-Puylaurent where we stayed at L’Etoile Guest House, and where Philippe, both host and conductor (he does everything!), welcomes you as if he has known you forever. Simple but quality accommodation, a hearty meal where nothing is missing, an atmosphere like home, and unparalleled warmth.

Let's go! A warm-up of 8 km. Departure at leisure towards Saint Laurent les Bains, passing by the Notre-Dame des Neiges Abbey. A gentle ascent of nearly 6 km through slightly hilly meadow landscapes, followed by a steep descent into Saint-Laurent-les-Bains over 2 km, passing by an old observation tower. Accommodation at the "Le Chat Bleu" lodge, where we only stay for one night.

Serious things begin. Heading to Montselgues. The terrain is very hilly and it’s astonishing to see how much the vegetation changes depending on the altitude and orientation of the land: chestnut forests preceding large expanses of heather offering an astonishing view of deep mauve. Then, a tranquil rural landscape takes us through the hamlets of Laval-d’Aurelle and Ourlette. Further along, halfway, a small picnic by the transparent waters of a river that remains very cold.

It is at this precise moment that things get tough, and the following ascent makes you regret the stop that has inevitably cooled your muscles as you face two significant elevation changes that will take us from 700 to 1100 meters in altitude. Water runs out quickly, but fortunately, we pass through Pradon where two young people on vacation kindly replenish us. Upon arriving in Montselgues, a very quiet village, we are warmly welcomed at the hostel where a hearty meal awaits us (which we will share with a couple from Sauternais who are actually doing the same route as us and we will meet again at the next stop) as well as a good restorative night.

A long descent takes us to the foot of the village of Thines, nestled on its rocky peak. A stop here is refreshing and allows us to replenish our drinking water at the fountain (actually, the tap from the cemetery where the water is so oxygenated that it appears cloudy). After that, another ascent through a forest of cork oaks and fragrant maritime pines leads us to nearly 900 meters in altitude. There, we take a section of an ancient Roman road before descending to Dépoudent where Monsieur Chat awaits us at his lodge (dormitory).

An unforgettable stop. A very "rustic" place with a terrace under a pergola, offering breathtaking views of the Chassezac valley, and a "genuine" welcome from this septuagenarian who is eager to let you taste local cuisine such as chicken with chestnuts, a salad of tomatoes directly from his garden, his kiwis or other plums, and homemade wine...

Today's agenda: a descent, a long descent with sometimes steep and rocky sections: not always easy to walk, especially at some points where there’s a risk of twisting an ankle. But after all, we will have passed through Saint-Jean-de-Pourcharesse whose church has five steeples, four of which have no bells! Upon arriving at Chambonas, we passed the halfway point of the hike we wanted to complete. So we choose to rest for a day in this small village, dominated by its castle, spending two nights in the guest room "Les Sources" (Gîtes de France No. 206), equipped with all comforts and a very pleasant pool. Too bad they don't have a guest table because the nearest shops are 2.5 km away, in Les Vans...

We did well to rest because this stage is tougher. After Les Vans, it climbs for over 4 km with an elevation gain of 400 meters, up to Brahic. Then it descends rather well: minus 300 meters over 2.5 km, including 150 meters in less than 1 km. There, the small river is very tempting for a picnic… After all, we have already walked nearly 9 km. But as before, getting started again is hard especially since it climbs steeply: 250 meters of elevation over just over 1 km. It gets hot. To the point where water is starting to worry us; we only have one liter left (which is little for four people!).

Les Vans Fortunately, the hardest part is behind us and we find a peaceful descent over two kilometers. And here is where the exception proves the rule: while we have never had issues replenishing our water, with people sometimes even offering it spontaneously, upon arriving at Safrenière, we ask a child playing at that moment in his garden, which is decorated with a beautiful swimming pool in front of a magnificent 4x4, if his parents are there and if it would be possible for them to fill our bottles with tap water. Astonishment: his mother assures us that the tap water is polluted, that they no longer had enough bottled water to sell us even one, and that the best solution was to return to Les Vans to buy some! But of course, my good lady, that's where we just came from; we’re going back there...

Génolhac Station We naturally continue on our path, which will end with a beautiful ascent to the charming lodge of La Pauze where our hostess, Madame De Roo, awaits us. She is a dynamic woman who runs her house with a true master’s hand. After inquiring, we learn that the tap water in the region is not polluted. So we will forget our fatigue (and Safrenière) by the pool in the company of the two very friendly dogs of the house. In the evening, we will dine at the guest table, which is honestly worth the detour!

After a breakfast that matches the warm welcome, we take "the road" again. From the moment we passed the property’s perimeter wall, we were in for a workout! It climbs and climbs again: in less than 6 km, we go from an altitude of 420 to 880 m! With some rather physical sections. But the effort is worth it because, seen from above, the observatory is a true delight. You can see the Cévennes and Ardèche stretching out before you, with the beautiful medieval castle of Aujac situated below.

Once this magnificent viewpoint is behind us, the challenges are not over. It remains quite exhausting as we will descend, in less than 4 km, to 320 meters in altitude (a drop of 560 m) to find ourselves on the banks of the Cèze. The place is beautiful enough to stop for a good while and have a picnic, and then, unless you left very early, you will need to kick it into high gear to arrive in time to catch the train. Moreover, it would be a shame not to enjoy the landscapes that are offered to you along the remaining route. After all, we are on vacation, and there is a train at 18:40 that will take you safely back, through a landscape that only walkers can truly appreciate at its true value. Magis Family

Former holiday hotel with a garden along the Allier, L'Etoile Guest House is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent between Lozere, Ardeche, and the Cevennes in the mountains of Southern France. At the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Stevenson Path, GR®72, GR®700 Regordane Way, GR®470 Allier River springs and gorges, GRP® Cevenol, Ardechoise Mountains, Margeride. Numerous loop trails for hiking and one-day biking excursions. Ideal for a relaxing and hiking getaway.