In the Footsteps of the Muleskinners in La Bastide-Puylaurent
The Voie Régordane, which historically connected Saint-Gilles to La Bastide-Puylaurent, was a vital artery in the Middle Ages, serving as an indispensable link between the south of France and the rugged Central Massif. At the very heart of this vast transport network, the muleskinners (muletiers) embodied the true essence of commercial life. They were men and women of the land, often hailing from hardworking farming families. Their challenging profession demanded an intimate, in-depth knowledge of mules—robust, sure-footed animals perfectly adapted to the unforgiving mountains. A skilled muleskinner knew exactly how to feed, carefully tend to, and expertly load them in a perfectly balanced manner. These mules, both sturdy and remarkably agile, could carry a wide variety of essential goods: salt, wine, precious cereals, and textiles... literal treasures from a time when every object carried its own unique story.
The Voie Régordane was infinitely more than just a simple path. It was embraced by breathtaking, picturesque landscapes, lush green valleys, and majestic, looming mountains. That being said, the road was also heavily strewn with formidable obstacles: steep, treacherous slopes, perilously narrow passages, and occasional encounters with unpleasant, dangerous individuals. The muleskinner had to remain constantly vigilant, not only against natural hazards but also against opportunistic thieves and bandits.
Traversing this demanding path meant facing long, exhausting days. Muleskinners would often set out at the very break of dawn, pushing hard with the hope of reaching a safe stop before nightfall. Every village represented a crucial resting place where they could meet, exchange vital news, and occasionally negotiate better prices. These lively stops were essential not just for trade, but for social connection, allowing muleskinners to forge strong, enduring bonds with the local inhabitants.
A Life of Help and Solidarity
In this deeply isolated region, the community of muleskinners was remarkably supportive. They readily helped each other navigate treacherous stretches, shared heavy burdens around warming campfires, and recounted vivid tales of their long journeys. The evenings provided a much-needed opportunity to laugh, sing, and spend comforting time together, far removed from the harsh realities of the wandering trails. These shared moments were absolutely crucial in a life where deep isolation could often weigh heavily on the soul.
With the rapid rise of the railway and the construction of modern roads in the 19th century, the traditional role of the muleskinners gradually faded, leaving behind a rich, enduring heritage. Today, their fascinating stories continue to resonate in the fond memories of older generations, and their incredible courage is still celebrated in vivid local tales. The Voie Régordane, for its part, has beautifully transformed into a popular, celebrated hiking trail for nature enthusiasts and history lovers alike. By walking this ancient path today, hikers can still genuinely feel the determined spirit of the muleskinners—those tireless, hardworking individuals who were forever in search of new horizons.
The vivid picture that the historian Mazon painted for us highlights the deeply picturesque nature of these unique characters. Let us listen to him: "The muleskinner always wore a scarlet red wool hat, a hat that was customary to keep on one's head in any honorable company, even inside a church. On this hat sat a heavy and wide brim, which was turned down like a parasol in sunshine, snow, or heavy rain, and turned up into a bicorne when it was necessary to push against the fierce mountain wind. This hat was sometimes elegantly adorned with a red cord featuring a bright tassel of the same color."
The muleskinners typically wore their hair tied back and only reluctantly surrendered this venerable appendage at the very last moment. During the Restoration, virtually everyone still wore it this way, and many stubbornly retained it well past 1830. Much like the famous patrons of the Rhône River, they had their ears adorned with large, gleaming gold rings. The only difference was that while a small anchor hung from the rings of the rivermen, a tiny mule iron hung from those of the muleskinners.
The tie was a striking red, and the vest matched it perfectly; bright, bold colors were highly favored in the harsh mountain environments. The jacket resembled those worn by prominent figures from the highlands, crafted of sturdy white cadis (a coarse woolen cloth) with large, gleaming copper buttons. It was quite roomy and tailored much like a sailor's coat, ultimately presenting a remarkable similarity to the traditional Breton jacket.
The trousers, made of a robust green cadis known locally as "boutique," were short and tightly fitted. The long gaiters, crafted from the same durable fabric but in stark white, were richly buttoned and secured tightly at the knee with bright red garters adorned with shining, polished buckles. Their sturdy shoes were of the Marlborough style, heavily ironed and equipped with three distinct leather ear tabs serving as underfoot straps to properly secure the long gaiters. A wide belt made of the brightest red wool tightly encircled the waist in a double or triple fold. Truly, never was a commissioner from the Convention or the Paris Commune so splendidly girded in red as even the most modest of Cévenol muleskinners.
Over this flamboyant outfit, during times of rain, snow, or biting cold, the muleskinners wore the traditional heavy coat of the mountain dwellers, commonly called the cape or limousine. It is worth noting that while this vibrant, colorful costume was not the only one worn, Mazon seems to have accurately described a fairly common archetype, at least during the glorious twilight of the muleskinner era.
Even more picturesque must the mules themselves have appeared, skillfully grouped into long teams known as "coubles," which could sometimes exceed twenty-five heads. Each strong mule could carry heavy loads of wine in two large bags—called "boutes" if they were crafted from cowhide, or "ouïres" if made from goat skin—with an impressive capacity reaching up to 70 or 80 liters each. Furthermore, each beast was heavily and richly adorned.
Let us listen to Mazon once more: "Three round, polished copper plates, about 15 centimeters in diameter, proudly adorned the upper part of the head. One was placed firmly on the forehead and the two others on the right and left, resting against the temples. All were surrounded by vibrant red wool tassels floating freely in the intervals. These plates, commonly called 'glasses' in the vulgar tongue and 'phaleres' by antique dealers, produced the greatest dramatic effect, especially when the mule traversed under the rays of a burning sun; it was then a true, blinding display of brilliance and lightning..." But the absolute most beautiful ornament of the mule, or at least the most visible, was the long, splendid red wool plume. Standing a full foot high, it rose proudly between the animal's two ears, completing its grand, theatrical decoration. These muleskinners were all, or almost all, "padgels"—true, resilient people of the high mountains.
The main places of origin for these legendary muleskinners included: Luc, La Veyrune, La Bastide-Puylaurent, Les Huttes, Saint-Laurent-les-Bains, La Garde-Guérin, Altier, Villefort, Saint-Étienne-de-Lugdarès, Loubaresse, and Petit-Paris (near Montselgues).
The mule itself is a remarkable hybrid, resulting from the crossbreeding of a male donkey (a jack) and a female horse (a mare). It is legendary for its incredible robustness, infinite patience, and unique ability to work under the most difficult conditions. Mules have existed for thousands of years, with their early domestication dating all the way back to antiquity, where they were particularly valued within the Egyptian and Roman civilizations. Thanks to their raw strength, staggering endurance, and relatively docile temperament, mules have long been utilized as premier pack animals, perfectly suited for transporting heavy loads over immense distances, especially in treacherous mountainous regions and unforgiving terrain. Beyond hauling goods, they were also extensively employed in agriculture to pull heavy plows and rustic carts.
Mules generally possess a highly robust body, strong, sturdy limbs, and a distinctive head that perfectly blends the physical traits of both the donkey and the mare. They usually feature ears longer than those of horses but slightly shorter than those of donkeys. Above all, mules are widely celebrated for their keen intelligence and strong sense of self-preservation. They are often far more cautious and deeply thoughtful than horses, a trait that can sometimes be mistakenly perceived as stubbornness, but is in fact pure wisdom. A notable biological aspect of the mule is that it is almost universally sterile, due to the chromosomal differences between donkeys and horses, meaning they cannot independently reproduce. They are universally reputed for their stamina, capable of working efficiently in extreme conditions without tiring nearly as quickly as other working animals.
La Bastide-Puylaurent itself was founded deep in the Middle Ages, around the 13th century. These "bastide" municipalities often emerged as vital places of commerce and vibrant exchange, serving as crucial meeting points for widespread local populations. Geographically located at a high altitude on the main road connecting the Central Massif to the neighboring southern valleys, its strategic placement greatly favored regional trade. This prime location quickly made it an indispensable stopping place for weary merchants and travelers.
Over the centuries, the core economy of La Bastide-Puylaurent has relied heavily on agriculture, livestock farming, and local craftsmanship. The valuable products resulting from these hard-fought activities, such as wholesome food and sturdy textiles, were continuously exchanged at local markets. The region is also widely known for its exceptional cheeses, particularly its goat cheese, which quickly found a prominent place in local and regional trade. Bustling fairs and vibrant markets have played an absolutely essential role in the commercial history of the municipality. These festive events allowed hardworking farmers and skilled artisans to sell their goods, exchange vital resources, and forge strong social ties. Later, in the 19th century, the exponential growth of transport networks—most notably the ambitious development of the railway—significantly contributed to dynamizing commerce by making the widespread transport of goods far easier and faster.
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