With Stevenson through the Cévennes

In the late 19th century, Robert Louis Stevenson, a Scottish writer, embarked on a solo journey through the Cévennes in search of the Camisard soul. Starting from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille with only a donkey as his companion, his colorful adventure ended in Saint-Jean-du-Gard and was immortalized in his famous book, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. It is the Lozère portion of this historic journey that we invite you to follow today.

Whether by car, on foot, on horseback, or with a donkey of your own, any mode of travel is wonderful depending on the time you have available. The proposed stages are all of high quality and will allow you to intensely experience the historic paths you traverse. And do not forget the quintessential guidebook for this pilgrimage in the footsteps of Stevenson! 1878... it seems so long ago. Yet today, it is still 1878. The spirit of the land remains entirely the same.

All the places he mentioned are still there, rooted in reality! The historic buildings, the narrow streets, the winding paths... Of course, the true heroine is missing: the donkey Modestine. She is no longer of this world. Unlike her master, she did not leave behind any written account to immortalize her own perspective. But such is the calling of the immense soul of a very small donkey who was scorned, ridiculed, harassed, and exhausted. Yet, Modestine, becoming less combative as the pages turn, increasingly invades the emotional universe of the narrator, forever changing his view of himself and of his "Cévennes."

From the explanatory adventures and didactic demonstrations that initiate this journal, we quickly move towards a more sensual, impressionistic, and initiatory reading of the landscape. The strict logic and construction of the work tremble and fade away into a progressively more intimate journey. Scents, colors, and sounds, of course, but also touch and taste, constitute the essentials of our journey through this rugged Gévaudan.

For it must be said, this is a highly literary journey... and a fundamentally funny one, at that. It is a quest for an impossible journey. It is an accumulation, a stacking of very Scottish misadventures in our beautiful Gévaudan country. Could one even think it is outright provocation? For why, Good Heavens, start a journey on foot at the very beginning of winter, in the highest and most unpredictable part of Lozère, just as it begins to shed its luminous autumn attire for the first chills, thick mists, and pearls of rain?

So it is during a time of year with rather uncertain weather that our hero takes the road descending from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille towards Langogne. The road? Let's say it was more like goat paths that his donkey guide determined with a gently stubborn obstinacy. For Modestine is a tough one; she has a head filled with poetic, emotional, and gustatory projects. And what she concocts in her head, she wants to execute right away with her little legs. In a tight, relentless flow! Apparently, Robert Louis Stevenson's plans did not always find their way... Thus: the Cévennes, wintertime, on foot, with a donkey, and carrying a heavy load. A load worthy of a stereotypical Englishman from an Épinal print. A list that the French poet Jacques Prévert could have written himself:

a frying pan,
a whisk,
a sleeping bag,
a cooked leg of lamb,
an alcohol lamp,
a bottle of Beaujolais,
another of Brandy,
and plenty, plenty of ropes...

For the packing and the ropes are the two pillars of this journey. They form the very heart of this adventure—the Gordian knot to untie. And like every Gordian knot, one must cut through it to move forward. Farewell then to the frying pan, the leg of lamb, the Beaujolais, and the white bread. Vicit Asinus (The donkey conquered). From then on, everything is ready to get back to the essentials, into the fog, and to the very heart of the fog of things. Are we comfortable or uncomfortable at the local inn? Is it wise to sleep there? Either way, one is either freezing or the subject of mockery. Sometimes both at the same time, when luck finally smiles upon you! Our glorious author would have gladly disregarded all these avatars if the metaphysical quarrels involving monks and converted Irishmen had not disturbed him somewhat at the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges abbey. But how can a Scottish Covenanter imagine spending a night in a papist monastery without shivering? It feels like throwing oneself into the wolf's den. Dangerous in the Land of the Beast—a meeting always dreaded, but perhaps secretly desired... For, after all, is the avowed purpose of this journey not the encounter with the Camisard Cévennes, the mysterious, and perhaps the still dangerous?

In 1878, the writer Robert Louis Stevenson, world-renowned for works such as Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, undertook a twelve-day hiking journey accompanied by Modestine, his faithful donkey. He started from the village of Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, a little south of Le Puy-en-Velay. We, however, began our own adventure in La Bastide-Puylaurent, right on the border between Vivarais and the Cévennes. Over the course of seven days, we will follow in Stevenson's footsteps, crossing Mont Lozère and finally reaching the small southern town of Saint-Jean-du-Gard.

How did a Scottish author like Stevenson (1850 - 1894) end up in this remote region that still retains a certain charm of isolation today? Well, it all started with a broken heart. He had fallen in love with an American woman named Fanny Osbourne, but she remained out of reach (though he eventually married her later). His family doctor and friend advised him to take a break and clear his mind. To find solace, he traveled to the French countryside, which led him to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille. After a few weeks, he grew bored and decided to embark on a hiking adventure through the Cévennes. For 65 old French francs and a glass of cognac, he bought a donkey from a local farmer to carry his belongings. He walked through the Velay, Gévaudan, and Vivarais, crossing Mont Lozère until he reached Saint-Jean-du-Gard. In Stevenson's time, it was a true adventure. He sometimes stayed with farmers, and other times slept under the stars in his makeshift sleeping bag. He frequently got lost, but along the way, he also had unforgettable, unexpected encounters. In 1879, the book Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes was published, and it has since been translated into French and cherished by generations of hikers.

The Stevenson trail, once a simple regional path, was officially recognized in 1994 and became the GR®70. Since then, many changes have taken place: topographic maps have been adapted, some old hostels have closed while welcoming new ones have taken their place. But the route is now exceptionally well-marked, making it hard to get lost. Due to time constraints, this time we will join the Stevenson trail through the Cévennes starting from La Bastide-Puylaurent. This small village is located on the D906 road between Langogne and Alès. It gained significant importance during the construction of the "Le Cévenol" railway line. It is situated at an altitude of 1024 meters, right between Vivarais (Ardèche) and the Cévennes, in the department of Lozère. As usual, we stay at the L'Etoile guesthouse, where Philippe Papadimitriou warmly welcomes us. Philippe sits down at the piano and effortlessly produces beautiful, relaxing melodies. The fire in the large fireplace crackles, and Billy, the dog, happily wags his tail.

The next day, rested from our long journey, we set off immediately. In reality, Stevenson followed the D6, which at the time was a simple cart track towards Chasseradès. Now, the modern trail winds beautifully through hills and amid dense woods. We spot the red and white markers near the train station, cross the tracks, and continue climbing through the forest following the GR®70. After walking along a wide country road, the ascent lasts about an hour until we reach the high point of the day, Le Moure de la Gardille, at an altitude of 1,308 meters. The woods disappear, and we walk across a sweeping plateau of meadows and bushes offering magnificent views in all directions. We gradually descend and reconnect with the D6. We first reach the station (on the La Bastide - Mende line) before arriving in Chasseradès. Although the village has a few good hotels, the old bakery-grocery has closed. We then continue our walk on a rocky path passing through Mirandol (home to the Mirandol stopover gîte) heading towards L'Estampe. Le Bleymard is still 10 kilometers away (or nearly three hours of walking).

On the second day of our hike (from L'Estampe to the Mont Lozère station), we begin by crossing the Goulet state forest, a beautiful woodland with varied tree species spanning about 1,250 hectares. Because of this, it takes some time to finally catch sight of Le Bleymard in the valley below. Here, one must be vigilant. At first, the Tour of Mont Lozère and the Stevenson path follow the same direction. The former crosses the entire village and then goes west. Our path, however, takes a small street to the left just before the center of the village (marked by the sign "La Fontaine") to ascend sharply to the south towards Mont Lozère. The climb is gradual until we reach a large clearing at the Mont Lozère ski resort. The wind blows freely here, and it can suddenly become much cooler. The northern slope of Mont Lozère is known for its rather harsh, unforgiving climate. For safety against the winter snowdrifts, most traditional houses have their entrance doors exclusively on the south side.

We are still far from the true summit of Mont Lozère, but we will reach it during the third stage of our journey. As we cross the high meadows, we follow a draille, an ancient path used by sheep herds during their annual transhumance to higher, greener pastures. In mid-June, they leave the scorching southern valleys, where the grass is already dry and grazed, for a journey of eight to nine days in search of fresh food further north. Mont Lozère has always been a regular resting place for these herds. In the past, there were more than 200,000 head of sheep, but today it is considered lucky to come across flocks of a thousand. The highest point of Mont Lozère, and of our entire journey, is the summit of Finiels, which reaches 1,699 meters above sea level. From there, we descend back into the woods and follow a rocky, uneven path to reach the next major stage, Le Pont-de-Montvert.

Located in a deeply enclosed valley where the Tarn river winds, Le Pont-de-Montvert is especially known for its narrow stone bridge and its beautiful, ancient stone dwellings. The town also has profound historical significance, as it is where the long, bloody struggle between the King's Dragoons and the Protestant Camisards began. In 1702, enraged Camisards assassinated the Abbé du Chayla here, a pivotal and brutal event of this turbulent period.

Indeed, the period of the religious wars in France left deep, lasting marks on the country's history. In the 16th century, vast regions of France had embraced the Protestant faith. However, some highly influential members of the French king's court violently opposed this situation, leading to the tragic massacre of St. Bartholomew's Night in 1572. King Henri IV, himself raised in the Protestant faith, attempted to reconcile the warring parties, and in 1598, the Edict of Nantes was signed. This landmark edict officially granted Protestants the freedom to worship in France.

However, in 1685, King Louis XIV completely revoked the Edict of Nantes, leading to a dark period of severe persecution and repression against Protestants. In the Cévennes, this sparked the fierce Camisard War (1702-1710). The Cévenol Protestants found themselves excluded from public jobs and faced numerous daily humiliations. Initially, utilizing their knowledge of the rugged mountains, the Protestants managed to stand up to their royal oppressors but ultimately had to yield to the crown's massive numerical superiority. Nevertheless, Protestantism is still very present in the southern Cévennes today, where different trends, mainly Calvinism, remain active. Compared to the strict Calvinism found in the Netherlands, Cévenol Calvinism is notably less rigid and possesses characteristics unique to this southern, independent region.

It is important to note that the fighting has long since ended, and Protestants and Catholics now live in total peace, deeply respecting religious freedom and coexisting harmoniously in these mountains.

The Plan de Fontmort, located not far from our route, is a historic crossroads of paths that offers a wide diversity of hiking possibilities. The Stevenson trail continues its course through the woods, providing welcome moments of shade on a hot day. The vegetation also shifts dramatically, moving from the harsh granite of Mont Lozère to the characteristic schist of the southern Cévennes. High-altitude conifers gradually give way to chestnut trees, holm oaks, and entirely different Mediterranean vegetation.

The GR®72 leads us from Cassagnas to Serre de la Can, an important and scenic stage of our hike. Although the Stevenson path may be less frequented here than in other sections, we still meet foreign hikers, mainly English and Scottish, as well as fellow French compatriots coming to discover this magnificent, literary route. The Mas de la Frutgère hostel, run by Patrick Saintemarie, is a highly welcoming place for hikers, where we can get valuable information about the upcoming trail and enjoy a well-deserved rest.

Each stage of our journey allows us to discover entirely new landscapes, immerse ourselves in a warm Mediterranean atmosphere, and closely follow Stevenson's literal footsteps through the Cévennes. The Stevenson path offers a truly unique and enriching experience, seamlessly blending wild nature, dramatic history, and pure hiking adventure.

The end of our hike on the Stevenson path leads us through beautiful valleys and villages steeped in history. After leaving Le Plan de Fontmort, we follow a wide, airy trail that offers stunning, sweeping views of the Vallée Française. On our way, we pass near a large standing menhir, a silent testament to a prehistoric past and ancient rituals related to sun worship and fertility.

As we cross the Col de la Pierre Plantée, a historic landmark amid the woods, we slowly descend towards Serre de la Can, a holiday center equipped with various accommodations, such as a hotel, a hostel, wooden chalets, and a welcome swimming pool. From there, we continue our steady descent into the charming, sun-drenched village of Saint-Germain-de-Calberte, dominated by its beautiful Romanesque church.

Leaving Saint-Germain-de-Calberte, we follow the D983 road towards Saint-Jean-du-Gard. Although the trail tries to avoid asphalt as much as possible, it sometimes happens that we have to follow the road for a short while. Along the way, it is also possible to take a one-kilometer detour to reach the Pont de Burgen hostel if one wishes to spend the night there. We then arrive at the highly touristic village of Saint-Étienne-Vallée-Française, and after crossing the old bridge over the Gardon river, the Stevenson trail delves deeper into the rugged countryside towards its grand terminus, Saint-Jean-du-Gard, crossing the steep Col de Saint-Pierre.

If you plan to stay at the Marouls hostel, you will need to continue following the D983 road. The seventh and final stage is relatively short, but it will allow you plenty of time to take the bus from Saint-Jean-du-Gard to Alès for your return journey. In any case, I highly recommend traversing this extraordinary part of the Cévennes on foot. You will undoubtedly be enchanted by the varied, dramatic landscapes, the fascinating history, and the incredibly unique atmosphere of this timeless region.