A week of hiking in Lozère

While surfing the internet for information about the GR®70 Stevenson Trail that a friend had told me about, I accidentally discovered a page titled "Unforgettable Hike in the Cévennes" by Gaston Testud. It specified a "6-day loop hike through the Cévennes," followed by a detailed and precise description of the route.

After discussing it with my wife and finding the route appealing and "ready to go," we decided to undertake this hike exactly as proposed. What an excellent decision! We spent a fantastic week, especially since beautiful weather accompanied us the entire time. With varied landscapes, breathtaking panoramas, and lush vegetation, every guesthouse we visited had real "soul"…

We arrived at L'Etoile, a large guesthouse located by the Allier River. A welcoming entrance hall leads to a wide staircase painted white, and a lush veranda offers a place to sit and enjoy the last rays of the sun before dinner. Philippe offers a choice between dormitories and rooms with or without private bathrooms, though hikers and guests alike often prefer the comfort and intimacy of the rooms overlooking the park or the river.

The very next day, we did a "warm-up" hike of about ten kilometres around the village, using one of the many trails marked on the IGN map graciously provided by Philippe, the manager of the guesthouse. The radiant sun promised us an excellent day, and indeed it was.

We first hiked up to the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey, a bit surprised to discover a small chapel by the roadside reminding us that here, at the beginning of the 20th century, Father Charles de Foucauld celebrated his first mass. Then, via a winding path, we reached "La Croix du Pal," an ancient stone cross. It is said that Roman armies passed through this place during Julius Caesar's final campaign. To our right, about a hundred metres away, we also spotted an amazing tower topped by a statue of Saint Laurent.

From there, we followed the GR®7 for a while until Coulet de Pécoïol, where we left it to head towards Rogleton and Laveyrune. A little further on, a path led us to the summit of Espérelouze, where we stopped for a picnic. Before us lay an exceptional panoramic view of the entire valley, with the village of La Bastide-Puylaurent in the distance. In the afternoon, following a path along a high-voltage line, we turned back to find the connecting trail between the GR®7 and GR®72.

We quietly reached Rogleton and from there followed the GR®72, which brought us back to our starting point, allowing us to enjoy the pleasure of being surrounded by countless wildflowers dotting the path.

Reassured about our fitness and equipment, we left our car in the car park at L'Etoile and set off on Monday for a week of trekking, following the guidance of Gaston Testud.

Aside from a brief section in the morning on a small paved road under renovation, the GR®70 (Stevenson Trail) offered us a magnificent and varied route. The two charming little villages of Chasseradès and Mirandol are very picturesque, with a surprising railway line playing hide-and-seek in the landscape.

In the evening, at the Alpiers gîte run by a very friendly lady of Dutch origin, we were surprised to find only people we had met the day before at L'Etoile. Needless to say, a great mood reigned around the communal table at dinner, especially since an excellent meal was served.

On Tuesday, we continued to follow the Stevenson Trail, passing through Le Bleymard. Solid elevation changes were on the agenda, but the weather was so beautiful and the landscapes so varied that the effort never felt overwhelming.

From the chalet at Mont Lozère to the summit of Finiels, you are treated to a permanent panoramic view; it is incredible what one can feel while walking along these ridges between sky and earth.

The descent on a steep and rocky path was a bit more perilous and hard on our knees. It eventually led us to the edge of the Rieussalet stream, which we followed — sometimes on the right bank, sometimes on the left — with a few acrobatic crossings before reaching Le Pont-de-Montvert.

The GR trail passes straight through the communal gîte, which is quite surprising. In fact, it feels more like a rustic shelter. It was a bit dark but nevertheless well-equipped. Le Pont-de-Montvert is a pretty village smiling by the river. With a restaurant, grocery store, bakery, bookshop, and souvenirs, all amenities are available, and we certainly took advantage of them.

On Wednesday, we said goodbye to the hikers following in Stevenson's footsteps, as we left the GR®70 to follow the GR®72, which would eventually bring us back to our starting point. From Le Pont-de-Montvert to the small village of Merlet, the path is pleasant, but the trail markers are quite sparse, making the IGN map very useful.

We then passed into an area dotted with gorse bushes taller than us, though very well-marked, before reaching an old stone dam built on the Tarn. From there until the old Pont du Tarn (Tarn Bridge), it was a dream path that we savoured to the fullest. We then reached the hamlet of Bellecoste and, via a good path, arrived at our destination, Mas de la Barque, where, like Gaston Testud, we took a one-day break. The Commandeur gîte is also a café-restaurant, and the welcome was once again very friendly and top-notch.

Instead of a true break, on Thursday we went on a round-trip hike of over twenty kilometres! Fortunately, we didn’t have our heavy backpacks on our shoulders…

We first climbed to the summit of Pic Cassini. The weather was superb, even warmer than previous days, offering a magnificent 360° view — an absolute must-see. From there, we improvised our route with the help of a map and compass, but also by sight, as the visibility stretched so far!

Taking a small path that descended along the 'Ravin des Échappés' (Ravine of the Escapees) — which is actually a pleasant valley — we bypassed Pic Cassini, then headed straight south through pastures and rocky outcrops to reach the village of Bellecoste, where we had passed the day before. We then headed towards Mas Camargue, and via a good path, rejoined the GR®7, which we followed until the Pont du Tarn, where we had a picnic under the pines bordering the river.

After lunch, we continued on the GR®7 to the hamlet of L'Aubaret. The vegetation was completely different from the morning; surrounded by spruces, one could easily imagine being in Canada…

There, we turned onto the GR®68. It was very hot in the early afternoon, and the route — fortunately short — on a paved road was not the most pleasant. We passed the village of 'La Vialasse', the few houses of 'Pierre Froide', and reached the banks of the Pudépin stream (referred to locally as Pudissime), which we followed northwards to Mas de la Barque. There was no marked trail, just the sound of the water on our left serving as a guide. We were thrilled to finally be in the undergrowth to find some refreshing coolness.

On Friday, we resumed our journey, first in the mist and then under a slightly cloudy sky, which we greatly appreciated compared to the heat of the previous day. The GR wound through the forest until the Rabusat pass; from there, it followed the ridge. Beautiful views on both sides enriched our progress, sometimes through heather fields (on the south-facing slopes), sometimes through gorse bushes (on the north-facing slopes).

After walking through the old town of Villefort, we walked along the lake and crossed the dam, where a strong wind was blowing. A little further on, we reached the ancient Roman road, the Voie Régordane (GR®700), which we stuck to for the rest of the way. Here and there, stunning views over the lake revealed themselves, much to our amazement.

In the afternoon, we took a break to visit the small village of La Garde-Guérin, beautifully restored in the spirit of the Middle Ages.

La Garde-Guérin is an old fortified village, remarkably situated on the edge of the GR®700 Régordane Trail, perched 400 metres above the Chassezac Gorges.

Travellers can spot the village from afar, built at nearly 900 metres in altitude on a sandstone plateau often swept by the winds. The base of the plateau is formed of granite rocks, through the maze of which the Chassezac torrent has carved impressive gorges. The village enjoys an exceptional location, dominating the entire surrounding landscape. You only need to go to the Pré de la Tour or the viewpoint over the Chassezac Gorges to be convinced. Even today, you can see everything in the surroundings without any obstacles.

Let us remember that the Régordane Trail led pilgrims to Saint-Gilles in the Gard department; the former priory of Prévenchères was also dependent on the Abbey of Saint-Gilles. The maintenance costs of this hospital had to be covered by various revenues from the community of Pariers (the local knights and co-lords). By the end of the 14th and the 15th centuries, new families had acquired shares and settled in La Garde-Guérin. During the 14th century, the shares frequently changed hands, and the original Pariers, with the exception of a very small number, eventually disappeared, leaving only a few members.

Saturday was certainly our shortest hike — only 15 to 16 km — but very pleasant. The sun had returned, and the path twisted among a profusion of wildflowers. On the rocky sections of the Régordane Trail that we encountered around Le Thort, the ruts left by the wheels of ancient carts were surprisingly well-preserved in the stone.

Shortly after lunch, the sky darkened. As a precaution, we took out our rain gear (for the first time since our departure) and placed it over our backpacks. Around 2 PM, we arrived in La Bastide-Puylaurent and reached the L'Etoile guesthouse without needing to put it on. Half an hour later, stepping out of the shower, we heard torrents of water pouring down on the trees in the courtyard; we had had a very lucky escape!

From this week of hiking, we hold only excellent memories: the warm welcomes, the superb landscapes we crossed, the encounters made on the trails and in the guesthouses… And our apologies to the magnificent deer we disturbed while it was sleeping peacefully in the gorse above Bellecoste…