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A week of hiking in Lozère |
     
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While surfing the internet, looking for information about the GR70 Stevenson trail that a friend had told me about, I accidentally discovered a page titled "Unforgettable Hiking in the Cévennes" by Gustave Testud. It was also specified "6-day loop hike through the Cévennes." It was followed by a more detailed and precise description of the route.
After discussing with my wife, finding the route appealing and "ready to go," we decided to undertake this hike as it was proposed to us. What an excellent decision! We spent a fantastic week, especially since the beautiful weather accompanied us throughout the week. Varied landscapes, breathtaking panoramas, lush vegetation, all lodges had "a soul"…
We arrived at L’Etoile, a large guesthouse located by the Allier River. A welcoming entrance hall leading to a wide staircase painted white. A lush veranda where one can sit to enjoy the last rays of the sun before the meal. Philippe offers a choice between dormitories and rooms with or without private bathrooms, but hikers as well as guests often prefer the comfort and intimacy of the rooms overlooking the park or the river.
The very next day, we did a "warm-up" hike of about ten kilometers around the village from one of the many trails marked on the IGN map and graciously offered by Philippe, the manager of the lodge. The radiant sun promised us an excellent day. And it indeed was.
We first hiked up to the Abbey Notre-Dame-des-neiges, a bit surprised to discover a small chapel by the roadside reminding us that here, at the beginning of the 20th century, Father de Foucault said his first mass. Then, by a winding path, we reached "La croix du Pal," an ancient stone cross. It is said that Roman armies passed through this place during Julius Caesar's last campaign. To our right, about a hundred meters away, we also spotted an amazing tower topped by the statue of Saint Laurent.
From there, we followed the GR7 for a while until Coulet de Pecoyol where we abandoned it to head towards Rogleton and Laveyrune. A little further, we followed a path that led us to the summit of Espervelouze where we had a picnic. Before us was an exceptional panoramic view of the entire valley, with the village of La Bastide-Puylaurent in the distance. In the afternoon, following a path along a high voltage line, we turned back to find the connecting trail between GR7 and GR72.
We quietly reached Rogleton and from there followed GR72 which brought us back to our starting point, allowing us to enjoy the pleasure of being surrounded by the countless wildflowers that dotted its path.
Reassured about our fitness and equipment, leaving our car in the park of L'Etoile, we set off on Monday for a week of trekking following the indications of Gaston Testud.
Aside from one section in the morning on a small paved road under renovation, GR70 (Stevenson path) offered us a magnificent varied route. The two charming little villages of Chasseradès and Mirandol are very picturesque with the surprising railway line playing hide and seek in the landscape.
In the evening, at the Alpiers lodge run by a very friendly lady of Dutch origin, we were surprised to find only people we had met the day before at L’Etoile. It is safe to say that at dinner, a good mood reigned around the communal table, especially since an excellent meal was served to us.
On Tuesday, we continued to follow the Stevenson path passing through Le Bleymard. Good elevation changes were on the program, but the weather was so nice and the landscapes so varied that no effort seemed extraordinary.
From the chalet at Mont Lozère to the summit of Finiels, it is a permanent panoramic view; it is incredible everything one can feel while walking along these ridges between sky and earth.
The descent, on a steep and rocky path, a bit more perilous, made our knees suffer before leading us to the edge of the Rieussalet stream, which we followed sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left, with some acrobatic crossings before reaching the Pont de Montvert.
The GR passes through the communal lodge, which is quite surprising. In fact, it is more of a shelter. We will have the lodge but not the cover. A little dark, it is nevertheless well equipped. The Pont de Montvert is a pretty village smiling by the river. Restaurant, grocery store, bakery, bookstore, souvenirs, all services are present, and we did not miss taking advantage of them.
On Wednesday, we said goodbye to the hikers following the traces of Stevenson because we abandoned GR70 to follow GR72 which should bring us back to our starting point. From Pont de Montvert to the small village of Merlet, the path is pleasant but the marking is very anecdotal, so the IGN map is very useful.
We then passed into an area dotted with gorse higher than us but, on the other hand, very well marked before reaching an old stone dam built on the Tarn. From there until the old Bridge of Tarn, it was a dream path that we savored to its full value. We then reached the hamlet of Bellecoste and, via a good path, our destination, Mas de la Barque, where, like Gaston Testud, we took a one-day break. The lodge of the Commandeur is also a café-restaurant. The welcome was again very friendly and of first quality.
Instead of a break, on Thursday we made a round hike of over twenty kilometers! But we didn’t have our heavy backpacks on our shoulders…
We first went to the summit of Mont Cassini. The weather was superb, even warmer than the previous days, with a magnificent 360° view, a must. From there, we improvised with the help of the map and compass but also by sight, the view went so far!
By a small path that descended along the "ravine of the escaped," in fact a pleasant valley, we bypassed Pic Cassini, then we went directly south through the pastures and rock piles to reach the village of Bellecoste where we had passed the day before. We then took the direction of Mas Camargue and by a good path, we went to meet GR7 which we followed until the bridge of Tarn where we had a picnic under the pines bordering the river.
After eating, we continued on GR7 to the hamlet of Aubaret. The vegetation was completely different from that in the morning; one could have thought they were in Canada amidst the spruces…
There, we turned onto GR68. It was very hot at the beginning of the afternoon, and the route, fortunately not very long, on the paved road, was not very pleasant. We passed the village of "La Vialasse," the few houses of "Pierre Froide," and reached the banks of the Pudissime stream, which we followed north until Mas la Barque. No marked trail, just the sound of the water on our left, which served as a landmark. But we were happy to finally be in the undergrowth to find some coolness.
On Friday, we resumed our journey, first in the mist and then under a slightly cloudy sky that we appreciated compared to the heat of the day before. The GR wound through the forest until the Rabusat pass where from there, it followed the ridge. Very beautiful views on both sides enriched our progress, sometimes in heather fields (slopes exposed to the south), sometimes in gorse fields (slopes exposed to the north).
After crossing the old town of Villefort, we walked along the lake, passed over the dam where a strong wind was blowing, and a little further on, we arrived at the old Roman road, the Régordane path, which we did not leave again. Very beautiful views over the lake, here and there, offered themselves for our amazement.
In the afternoon, we took a break to visit the small village of La Garde Guérin, beautifully restored in the spirit of the Middle Ages.
La Garde Guérin is an old fortified village, remarkably located on the outskirts of the GR700 Régordane path and above the Gorges du Chassezac, which it dominates by 400 meters.
The traveler sees from afar the village, built at nearly 900 meters altitude, on a sandstone plateau, often swept by winds. The base of the plateau is formed of granite rocks, in the maze of which the torrent of Chassezac has carved impressive gorges. The village enjoys an exceptional location and dominates the entire surrounding landscape. It is enough to go to the Pré de la Tour or to the viewpoint of the Gorges du Chassezac to be convinced. One can still see everything around today, and without obstacles.
Let us remember that the Régordane path led pilgrims to Saint-Gilles in the Gard; the former priory of Prévenchères was also dependent on the abbey of Saint-Gilles. The maintenance costs of this hospital had to be covered by the various revenues from the community of papers. At the end of the 14th century and the 15th century, new families acquired parishes and settled in La Garde-Guérin. In the 14th century, the parishes frequently changed masters, and the old parishioners, with the exception of a very small number, eventually disappeared. Only a few members remained.
Saturday was certainly our shortest hike, only 15 to 16 km, but very pleasant. The sun had returned, and the path twisted among a profusion of wildflowers. On the rocks of the Régordane path that we found around Thort, the marks left by the wheels of Roman carts were surprisingly well marked in the stone.
Shortly after our meal, the sky darkened, and as a precaution, we took out our rain gear (the first time since our departure) which we placed over our backpacks. Around 2 PM, we arrived at La Bastide-Puylaurent and found the L’Etoile lodge without needing to cover ourselves. Half an hour later, coming out of the shower, we heard torrents of water pouring down on the trees in the courtyard; we had had a lucky escape!
From this week of hiking, we keep only excellent memories: the kindness of the welcome, the superb landscapes crossed, the encounters made on the trails or in the lodges… And apologies to the magnificent deer that we disturbed while it was sleeping peacefully in the gorse above Bellecoste…
Former holiday hotel with a garden along the Allier, L'Etoile Guest House is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent between Lozere, Ardeche, and the Cevennes in the mountains of Southern France. At the crossroads of GR®7, GR®70 Stevenson Path, GR®72, GR®700 Regordane Way, GR®470 Allier River springs and gorges, GRP® Cevenol, Ardechoise Mountains, Margeride. Numerous loop trails for hiking and one-day biking excursions. Ideal for a relaxing and hiking getaway.
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