While browsing the internet for information on the GR®70 (the Stevenson Trail)—which a friend had recommended—I stumbled upon a page titled 'Unforgettable hike in the Cévennes' by Gaston Testud. It detailed a '6-day loop hike through the Cévennes,' providing a precise and comprehensive description of the route.
After discussing it with my wife, we found the itinerary appealing and 'ready to go,' so we decided to undertake the hike exactly as proposed. It turned out to be an excellent decision! We enjoyed a fantastic week, made even better by the beautiful weather that accompanied us throughout: varied landscapes, breathtaking panoramas, lush vegetation, and guesthouses with genuine charm...
We first arrived at L'Etoile, a spacious guesthouse situated on the banks of the Allier River. A welcoming entrance hall opens onto a wide, white-painted staircase, while a lush veranda offers the perfect spot to sit and enjoy the last rays of sunshine before dinner. Philippe provides a choice between dormitories and private rooms (with or without en-suite bathrooms). However, hikers and regular guests alike often prefer the comfort and privacy of the rooms overlooking the park or the river.
The very next day, we set out for a 'warm-up' hike of about ten kilometres around the village, following one of the many trails clearly marked on the IGN map graciously provided by Philippe, the guesthouse manager. The radiant sun promised us an excellent day, and it certainly delivered.
We first hiked up to the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey, a bit surprised to discover a small roadside chapel serving as a reminder that, in the early 20th century, Father Charles de Foucauld celebrated his first mass here. Then, navigating a winding path, we reached 'La Croix du Pal', an ancient carved stone cross. Legend has it that Roman armies passed through this exact spot during Julius Caesar's final campaign. About a hundred metres to our right, we also spotted a striking tower topped with a statue of Saint Laurent.
From there, we followed the GR®7 for a while until reaching Coulet de Pécoïol, where we branched off towards Rogleton and Laveyrune. A little further on, a path led us to the summit of Espérelouze, where we stopped for a picnic. An exceptional panoramic view of the entire valley opened up before us, with the village of La Bastide-Puylaurent visible in the distance. In the afternoon, as the path began to follow a high-voltage power line, we opted to turn back and locate the connecting trail between the GR®7 and GR®72.
We leisurely made our way to Rogleton and then followed the GR®72, which led us back to our starting point, allowing us to fully appreciate the countless wildflowers dotting the trail.
Confident in our fitness and equipment, we left our car in the L'Etoile car park and set off on Monday for a week of trekking, carefully following Gaston Testud’s directions.
Aside from a brief morning stretch on a small paved road undergoing repairs, the GR®70 (Stevenson Trail) offered a magnificent and varied route. The two charming villages of Chasseradès and Mirandol are incredibly picturesque, with an unexpected railway line playing hide-and-seek throughout the landscape.
That evening, at the Alpiers gîte run by a lovely Dutch lady, we were surprised to find only fellow hikers we had already met the previous day at L'Etoile. Needless to say, a fantastic atmosphere reigned around the communal dinner table, perfectly complementing the excellent meal we were served.
On Tuesday, we continued along the Stevenson Trail, passing through Le Bleymard. Significant elevation changes were on the agenda, but the weather was so beautiful and the landscapes so diverse that the effort never felt overwhelming.
From the Mont Lozère chalet to the summit of Finiels, the panoramic view is constant. It is truly incredible what one can feel while walking along these mountain ridges, seemingly suspended between sky and earth.
The descent along a steep, rocky path proved a bit more perilous and was tough on our knees. It eventually brought us to the edge of the Rieussalet stream, which we followed—sometimes on the right bank, sometimes on the left—navigating a few acrobatic crossings before arriving at Le Pont-de-Montvert.
Surprisingly, the GR trail passes directly through the communal gîte. In truth, it felt more like a rustic mountain shelter: we had accommodation, but no meals were provided. Although a bit dark, it was nonetheless well-equipped. Le Pont-de-Montvert is a charming village smiling by the river. With a restaurant, grocery store, bakery, bookshop, and souvenir shops, all essential amenities are available, and we certainly made the most of them.
On Wednesday, we bid farewell to the hikers following in Stevenson's footsteps, as we left the GR®70 to join the GR®72, which would ultimately lead us back to our starting point. From Le Pont-de-Montvert to the small village of Merlet, the path is highly enjoyable; however, the trail markers are quite sparse, making our IGN map particularly useful.
We then traversed a very well-marked area submerged in gorse bushes taller than us, before reaching an old stone dam built on the Tarn River. From that point until the old Pont du Tarn (Tarn Bridge), it was a dream trail that we savoured to the fullest. We then reached the hamlet of Bellecoste and, via a good path, arrived at our destination: Mas de la Barque. Following Gaston Testud's example, we took a one-day break here. The local gîte, Le Commandeur, also serves as a café-restaurant; once again, the welcome was warm and of top quality.
For our 'rest day' on Thursday, we nevertheless embarked on a round-trip hike of over twenty kilometres! Fortunately, we no longer had our heavy backpacks weighing us down...
We first climbed to the summit of Pic Cassini. The weather was spectacular, slightly warmer than the previous days, and the breathtaking 360-degree view was an absolute must-see. From there, we improvised our route using a map and compass, but also by sight, as the visibility stretched endlessly!
Taking a small path down the 'Ravin des Échappés' (Ravine of the Escapees)—which is actually a very pleasant valley—we bypassed Pic Cassini. We then headed due south through pastures and rocky outcrops to reach the village of Bellecoste, which we had passed the day before. Proceeding towards Mas Camargue via a good track, we rejoined the GR®7 and followed it to the Pont du Tarn. We stopped there for a picnic in the shade of the pine trees bordering the river.
After lunch, we continued along the GR®7 to the hamlet of L'Aubaret. The vegetation here was radically different from the morning; surrounded by spruce trees, we could have easily imagined ourselves in Canada...
At that point, we turned onto the GR®68. It was intensely hot in the early afternoon, and the section on the paved road (fortunately brief) was not particularly pleasant. After passing through the village of La Vialasse and the few houses of Pierre Froide, we reached the banks of the Pudissime stream, which we followed northwards up to Mas de la Barque. Without a marked trail, we relied solely on the sound of the water on our left as a guide. We were delighted to finally step into the forest undergrowth and find some refreshing coolness.
On Friday, we hit the trail once again. We started in the mist and later walked under a slightly cloudy sky—a welcome relief compared to the previous day's heat. The GR wound through the forest up to the Rabusat pass, and from there, it followed the ridge line. Beautiful panoramic views on both sides enriched our trek, passing through heather fields on the south-facing slopes and gorse bushes on the north-facing ones.
After walking through the historic town of Villefort, we skirted the lake and crossed the dam, which was being swept by a fierce wind. A bit further on, we reached the ancient Roman road—the Voie Régordane (GR®700)—which we stayed on for the rest of the journey. Here and there, stunning visual glimpses of the lake revealed themselves, much to our absolute amazement.
In the afternoon, we took a break to visit the small village of La Garde-Guérin, which has been beautifully restored in the spirit of the Middle Ages.
La Garde-Guérin is an ancient fortified village, remarkably situated on the edge of the Voie Régordane (GR®700), perched nearly 400 metres above the Chassezac Gorges.
Travellers can spot the village from afar, built at an altitude of nearly 900 metres on a sandstone plateau often battered by the winds. The foundation of the plateau consists of granite rocks, through which the Chassezac torrent has carved an impressive labyrinth of gorges. Thanks to its exceptional geographic location, the village dominates the entire surrounding landscape. One only needs to visit the Pré de la Tour or the viewpoint over the Chassezac Gorges to be convinced: even today, you can survey the whole region without a single obstacle.
It is worth noting that the Régordane Trail once led pilgrims to Saint-Gilles in the Gard region; in fact, the former priory of Prévenchères was dependent on the abbey of that very town. The maintenance costs for the local hospital had to be covered by various revenues from the community of pariers (local co-lords). By the late 14th and 15th centuries, new families had acquired shares and settled in La Garde-Guérin. During this period, these shares frequently changed hands, leading to the gradual disappearance of the original pariers, save for a small handful of remaining members.
Saturday's hike was undoubtedly the shortest of our stay (only 15 to 16 kilometres) but proved to be incredibly pleasant. The sun was shining once again, illuminating a path that meandered through a profusion of wildflowers. On the rocky sections of the Régordane Trail, which we picked up again near Le Thort, the deep ruts left centuries ago by the wheels of Roman carts remained surprisingly well-defined in the stone.
Shortly after our lunch, the sky darkened. As a precaution, we took out our rain gear for the very first time since our departure and strapped it to the top of our backpacks. Around 2 PM, we arrived in La Bastide-Puylaurent and returned to the L'Etoile guesthouse without ever needing to put it on. Half an hour later, just as we stepped out of the shower, we heard a torrential downpour crashing against the trees in the courtyard: we had had a very lucky escape!
We hold nothing but excellent memories of this week of hiking: the warm hospitality, the beauty of the landscapes we crossed, and the wonderful encounters on the trails and in the guesthouses... And we offer our sincere apologies to the magnificent deer we inadvertently disturbed while she was resting peacefully in the gorse above Bellecoste...