48.4km bike tour at La Bastide-Puylaurent
From L'Etoile, cross the bridge over the Allier River and take the D906 on the left toward Langogne until you reach Rogleton. Turn right onto the D154, passing through Laveyrune and the Pranlac bridge across the Allier. Rejoin the D906 for 500 meters, then take the small road on the left heading up toward Luc. In the center of the village, turn left and follow this road to Espradels. Turn left toward Le Cheylard-l'Évêque. In the village center, turn left onto the D71, riding through the Mercoire and Gardille forests until you reach Chazeaux. Finally, turn left onto the D6 and follow it back to La Bastide-Puylaurent via Mirandol, Chasseradès, Chabalier, the Château de Chabaleyret, Masméjean, and Les Huttes.
Distance: 48.4 kmThe Château de Luc traces its origins to an ancient Celtic site on the edge of the Mercoire forest, overlooking the mysterious Tanargue massif. Constructed between the 6th and 10th centuries, it dates back to a time when Gévaudan was an independent province divided into eight baronies. The castle belonged to the Lords of Luc, who were allied with the powerful Barons of Randon and, consequently, the illustrious House of Joyeuse. Known for their bravery, piety, and sense of justice, the Lords of Luc held the privilege of minting money, levying taxes, administering justice, and waging war. Though respected and feared by their vassals, they were also known for their generosity, providing refuge and aid to the needy, the sick, and weary pilgrims.
Created in 1888 when it separated from Chaudeyrac, the commune of Cheylard-l'Évêque is nestled in a pristine, secluded valley. Here, it is easy to imagine the tranquil pace of life the Lozériens enjoyed in the last century. Cheylard offers all the peaceful charm of a hidden paradise. Winters can be harsh, with small roads frequently blanketed in snow. During these long, white months, residents rely on strong community bonds to share errands, fetch bread, collect mail, and clear the roads. The vast Mercoire state forest provides ample firewood, while the autumn months of September and October bring everyone out to forage for mushrooms, including ceps, milk-caps, chanterelles, and hedgehog mushrooms. The village is a popular retreat for visitors from the Gard and Haute-Loire, drawn by its timeless atmosphere and excellent trout fishing in the Langouyrou river, which flows onward to Langogne.
The Abbey of Mercoire once controlled a sixth of the 10,000-hectare Mercoire forest, a vast estate gifted by Guillaume de Randon in the 12th century. To sustain itself, the abbey also held properties across Vivarais, Velay, and Gévaudan, collecting revenues in wheat, rye, poultry, butter, cheese, wine, oil, and chestnuts. By the late 13th century, the convent was home to 50 nuns and 15 novices or noblewomen sent there for their education. However, their numbers dwindled to about fifteen by the 15th century, and only seven remained by the French Revolution. The abbey's isolation could not protect it from the ravages of history; it was attacked by the Huguenot forces of Captain Merle in 1578, and a devastating fire in 1773 destroyed everything but the church and chapel. Although generous donations funded reconstruction, the abbey and its lands were ultimately sold as national property two decades later and converted into a farm around 1875.
Southwest of Chasseradès stood the Castle of Mirandol, its name proudly reflecting the sweeping panoramic views it once commanded. As the seat of a major lordship—one of the twelve foundational domains of Gévaudan—it was held during the Romanesque period by the ancient knights of Naves. In 1207, Guillaume de Naves served as a parier (co-lord) of La Garde-Guérin, while Guérin de Naves, Lord of Mirandol, is recorded witnessing an oath of homage to Guigues, Baron of Tournel, in 1267. Continuing slightly further west along a narrow, paved road marked by ancient granite crosses, you will arrive at the picturesque village of Saint-Frézal-d'Albuges.
The scenic train connecting Mende to La Bastide-Puylaurent via Allenc and Belvezet still makes regular stops at the small station located about a kilometer from Chasseradès. In winter, snowdrifts frequently block the line, necessitating the construction of protective snow sheds along the route. This unique, inexpensive, and charming mode of transport is a rarity in France, and conveniently allows you to bring your bicycle aboard. To request a stop, simply stand on the platform and flag down the driver with a wide wave. Nearby, the Mirandol viaduct offers an impressive sight. It spans the Chassezac River, which begins to carve a small canyon here before deepening into the majestic gorges found further downstream near La Garde-Guérin. Like the Allier, the Chassezac River traces its source back to the heights of the Moure de la Gardille.
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