To the Rhythm of L'Etoile

Upon arriving at the La Bastide-Puylaurent station, I am warmly greeted by Philippe. Casually dressed, he approaches me with his characteristic ease and friendliness, having stepped away from the kitchen where his dishes are slowly simmering. With somewhat hesitant steps, I climb aboard the grand "ship" that is L'Etoile, ready for the adventure. Already, hikers trekking across the Cévennes from refuge to refuge along the Stevenson Trail are gathering in the veranda.

I settle into room number seven, complete with a small balcony, and head down the spiral staircase. My familiarity with the house had been limited; the previous year, I only knew my room, the large dining hall with its communal tables, a corner of the kitchen (where I occasionally washed a few glasses), and the dishwashing area. Philippe graciously takes the time to give me a full tour of his grand residence, punctuating the visit with his trademark humor.

On my first day, I am content to simply observe, though I spontaneously help out with a few tasks in the kitchen overlooking the Allier River—earning some early compliments. The following day, I still move with slight hesitation through this vast property as I discover its layout. The cold room impresses me, along with the dough mixer and the large dishwashing sinks. Gradually, the guesthouse works its charm on me, and the grand hall, reminiscent of an Art Deco gallery in Salamanca, Spain, shines brilliantly.

The kitchen soon becomes a familiar and enchanting space. It feels almost magical when Philippe prepares his delicious dishes; the aromas mingle with the lively emotions of the house, weaving a peaceful and solid harmony for the evening ahead. It’s hard not to think of Laura Esquivel's famous novel, Like Water for Chocolate. Savoring a meal right there in the kitchen gives the food an incredible flavor: the crust of homemade bread fresh from the oven, a spoonful of fromage blanc, the delicious homemade soup, and the hearty meat served with new potatoes!

Another spot I instantly cherish is the small garden terrace with its iron table and black lacquered chairs. I love having my breakfast there, lulled by the morning breeze and surrounded by leafy trees and Virginia creeper. At L'Etoile, you rediscover authenticity, beauty, and simple kindness—the true essentials—thanks to Philippe, who effortlessly navigates between cooking and entertaining his guests at the communal tables.

At the end of the meal, he encourages everyone to help clear the tables, as the dishwashing area is open to all. It’s a unique concept and a communal art that he cultivates daily. He even improvises melodies on the piano or sings classics like "Hotel California" and "Take It Easy" (Winslow, Arizona) while strumming his guitar with an authentic American accent. Meanwhile, the lingering guests relax in their chairs, sipping verbena tea from Puy-en-Velay. For the first time, the piano piques my curiosity. I am eager to learn, and Philippe generously gives me my first lessons. What an adventure! I have truly found my sea legs on this fascinating ship; the building has a soul, and you feel wonderfully at home.

My stay at L'Etoile was also punctuated by numerous minibus excursions, each more interesting than the last, all expertly guided by Philippe. We had coffee with Christine at Villa Les Roches, a warm-hearted Englishwoman who runs a magnificent guesthouse near Langogne. We visited Pierre at the Auberge Regordane in La Garde-Guérin, a medieval village overlooking the Chassezac gorges, and stopped to see Christian at the Refuge du Moure in Cheylard-l'Évêque. I also hold fond memories of the warm welcome from Bertrand and his daughter at the Thort cheese dairy, situated right on the GR®700 Regordane Way.

Our trips to Le Puy-en-Velay were made even better by a gourmet stop at a Moroccan restaurant tucked away on a small pedestrian street in the city center; their tagine was to die for. We filled our wine barrels in Langogne twice and stocked up on fresh fruits and vegetables—a simple daily luxury that feels incredibly special.

Two outings remain especially etched in my memory: a refreshing swim in the Borne River in Ardèche, and a visit to the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey. The picturesque walk back partially followed the GR®7 and GR®72 trails, from which I could even spot the window and balcony of my little room.

My room, located at the very top of the house, was a haven of simplicity and elegance. At night, I would linger on the balcony to quietly contemplate nature. I always left the curtains open, as every morning unveiled a new, beautiful spectacle. Sometimes, the chime of the bells would gently pull me from sleep (often a bit late!), and right from my bed, I would greet the nature smiling back at me. Down below, the smoking chimney signaled that Philippe was already hard at work. Good morning! A new day was dawning at L'Etoile, always promising joy and good humor. An immense thank you to Philippe for these unforgettable moments shared aboard his ship. His kindness and thoughtfulness truly touched my heart.

During a little escapade near Saint-Laurent-les-Bains, I stopped by the workshop of Elisabeth, a woodturning artist whose creations in walnut, beech, rosewood, and maple are true works of art. I also had the great pleasure of meeting friendly fellow guests: a German family whose daughter stayed near my room, a train conductor and his daughter, a mother with her two sons, and Sol and her husband.

So many wonderful encounters in such a short time! On the day of my departure, despite the rain at L'Etoile, we took the time to sit together on the terrace. Farewell to this beautiful residence, and farewell to the Prince of hospitality and expertise! By Colette Louvel