Tourism at that time in Génolhac
In a bygone era, vacationing in Génolhac became a cherished escape for city dwellers yearning for nature and relaxation. Nestled deep in the heart of the Cévennes, the village provided an idyllic setting for holidays, surrounded by rugged mountain landscapes, winding rivers, and dense, quiet forests. Visitors could choose to stay in elegant hotels, welcoming guesthouses, charming bed and breakfasts, or traditional rented holiday homes.
By the late 19th century, Génolhac and its stunning surroundings had become a highly favored summer destination for the residents of Alès and Nîmes seeking cool, fresh air. While summer temperatures soared to unbearable levels down in the southern cities, Génolhac’s high altitude and pristine environment naturally drew numerous visitors eager to retreat into a serene, natural haven—perfect for leisurely walks, fishing, and shaded picnics.
The magnificent, stately homes lining the streets of Génolhac stand today as beautiful testaments to this prestigious past. Carefully scattered across the hillside, these grand villas offer breathtaking, sweeping views of Mont Lozère and the deep valleys below. Many were thoughtfully designed with large balconies and open terraces where families would gather for outdoor meals, cradled by the gentle songs of birds and the soothing murmur of the nearby rivers.
These stately residences were frequently surrounded by lush, vibrant gardens, passionately maintained by their owners. The inherently peaceful atmosphere of Génolhac was beautifully enhanced by the sweet scent of wildflowers blooming throughout the summer months. Autumn brought its own rewards; the region’s rich biodiversity made it a premier destination for foraging an abundance of wild, edible mushrooms, including Cèpes, Girolles, Lactaires, and Pieds-de-Mouton.
City dwellers loved to mingle with locals in the vibrant cafes and the sun-drenched village square for friendly games of pétanque. The lively summer season was punctuated by joyful local festivals, bustling artisan fairs, and colorful weekly markets, offering visitors a delightful opportunity to taste regional specialties and discover authentic Cévenol craftsmanship.
The rapid development of modern infrastructure, particularly the railway, played a defining role in Génolhac's soaring popularity. The monumental construction of the "Le Cévenol" railway line at the close of the 19th century miraculously connected major cities directly to these remote mountain villages, effortlessly facilitating the arrival of those desperate to escape the summer heat.
The legendary Cévenol line was proudly inaugurated in 1880, during a golden age of railway expansion across France. The ambitious project aimed to open up isolated rural areas and aggressively promote tourism within the Cévennes—a majestic mountain range brimming with breathtaking scenery. This remarkable railway not only provided vital access to remote villages but also offered travelers an unforgettable, scenic journey through the untamed beauty of the Cévenol landscapes.
Initially, the scenic train journey from Nîmes to Génolhac provided a highly practical solution for locals, as well as a magical escape for city residents fleeing the stifling summer heat. The train bravely wound its way through picturesque terrain—tracing rushing rivers, climbing through dense forests, and offering passengers awe-inspiring panoramas of the deep valleys below. With the advent of the railway, the influx of tourists grew exponentially. Hotels, bustling guesthouses, and comfortable lodgings quickly sprang up around Génolhac's station, perfectly catering to a clientele hungry for cool air and gentle adventure.
For those arriving by car, the winding D906 road offered its own spectacular rewards, guiding visitors through the dramatic heart of the Cévennes, past the imposing Château de Portes and the majestic viaduct of Chamborigaud.
Today, the timeless spirit of vacationing in Génolhac endures, even as the eras have shifted. The beautiful, historic homes scattered throughout the region continue to attract those seeking a peaceful second home—a perfect place to enjoy a cool, restorative summer at the foot of Mont Lozère, keeping the gentle traditions of the past vibrantly alive.
Travel Guide from the Early 20th Century
Génolhac (470 m altitude; railway station; Hostellerie de la Route du Mont Lozère, open May-October, 16 rooms, tel. 2). With its 953 inhabitants, this charming small summer resort rests gracefully along the Gardonnette river, nestled between majestic mountains draped in ancient chestnut trees and refreshed by flowing, crystal-clear waters.
Around Génolhac:
1° Mont Lozère: 16 km northeast of Génolhac at the crest of the Tête-du-Bœuf, accessible via a highly picturesque, albeit somewhat difficult and rugged forest road passing the Malmontet tower. At Tête-du-Bœuf—where one can bravely hike the Malpertus rock in about an hour—travelers can join the beautiful scenic route connecting Villefort to Le Bleymard straight across Mont Lozère.
2° Gorges de l'Hormol (to the West): stunningly pretty sites featuring a refreshing waterfall.
3° Gorges du Rieutord and the Caves of the Camisards (to the West), accessible via the village of Vialas.
4° Valleys of the Luech and the Gardonnette (a highly recommended 32 km circuit): follow route N. 106 to Chamborigaud, descend the dramatic gorge of the Luech down to Peyremale, and return to Génolhac by ascending the beautiful valley of the Gardonnette. Just 4 km downstream from Génolhac stands the imposing feudal castle of Feras, looming proudly above the left bank of the river.
5° Château de Brésis (to the Northeast; 6 km on foot, 10 km by road), quietly hidden in the lush valley of the Cèze.
From Génolhac to Florac: The Upper Tarn Valley (48.5 km West via route N. 598; motor service available). One follows the road from Nîmes for 1.5 km, then merges onto route N. 598 which branches off to the right, crossing the small pass of Rize, nestled between the Homol and the Luech rivers.
The road steadily climbs westward up the rugged valley of the Luech before crossing its vital tributary, the Gourdouze.
Vialas (608 m altitude) is a beautifully situated village perched above the confluence of the Luech and the Gourdouze, resting on the steep granite slopes of the Gourdouze spur (1,326 m), deeply sheltered beneath ancient chestnut woods. The area boasts numerous walks and excursions: just 15 minutes away lie the fascinating abandoned argentiferous lead mines (closed since 1909). To the North-Northwest, at the tiny hamlet of Gourdouze, one is rewarded with a distant, breathtaking view stretching all the way to the sea. To the West await the dramatic gorges of the Rieutord and the secretive caves of the Camisards near the hamlet of Tourières.
The road continues its relentless ascent along the left bank of the Luech, winding through sharp bends across the lateral ravine of the Rieutord. Beyond the small settlement of Soleyrols, the steep climb intensifies significantly.
Finally, one reaches Saint-Maurice-de-Ventalon, proudly dominated to the South by the towering signal of Saint-Maurice (1,355 m). Continuing to the Col de la Croix de Berthel (1,088 m), travelers cross the central axis of the Cévennes to begin their descent into the vast Tarn basin via the Alignon valley. Deep within the ancient beech woods of Vernets, one can still discover a haunting granite pulpit once used by the persecuted Pastors of the Desert, and just below it lies the Baptéjadou fountain, where secret baptisms were solemnly conducted. The journey finally emerges into the stunning Tarn valley, crossing the river just 2 km upstream from the historic village of Pont-de-Montvert.
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