A cool summer week

Arriving by train at the La Bastide Saint-Laurent-les-Bains station, located just 300 meters from L’Etoile, I was warmly greeted by the owner, who immediately made me feel at home. The building itself—a majestic holiday hotel erected in 1926—stands proudly amidst a vast, lush garden bordered by the tranquil waters of the Allier River. My room was spacious and comfortable, featuring a minimalist decor that added a welcome touch of authenticity and serenity to my stay. Thanks to La Bastide-Puylaurent's altitude of 1,000 meters, the nights were pleasantly cool and restful, even during a summer heatwave.

The meals, wholesome and generous, were carefully prepared by Philippe, our host. Dinner, served at the communal dining table in the large room opening onto the garden, was a wonderful time of sharing and conviviality. To plan my daily loop hikes, I easily downloaded GPX files onto my phone using the QR codes provided at L’Etoile. I also enjoyed refreshing swims in the Borne River, a little slice of paradise nestled below the village of Saint-Laurent-les-Bains.

Every morning, armed with a hearty breakfast and a packed lunch, I set off on a new adventure. The loop trails beckoned, winding through pine and chestnut forests, opening up into verdant valleys cut by melodious streams. The air was thick with the scent of wildflowers and underbrush. Occasionally, a distant village would appear on the horizon, promising a new encounter or a local legend. Each hike felt like an epiphany—an intense moment of communion with nature and myself. The summits offered breathtaking panoramas where the azure sky merged with ochre rocks and tender green foliage. I felt entirely free, carried by the wind and enveloped by the silence. At the end of the day, I would return to L’Etoile, where a cold Belgian beer awaited me before the communal dinner at 7:30 PM.

My stay at L'Etoile was far more than a simple getaway. It was a plunge into a world where time seemed to stand still, where every step sparked new curiosity, and every evening brought me back to the essentials. Here in Lozère, I discovered a true gem: the simplicity of a life lived in perfect harmony with nature.

Finally, I must highlight the incredibly warm and welcoming atmosphere of L’Etoile Guesthouse. The moments shared around the table, conversing with other guests and Philippe, will remain forever etched in my memory. My stay here was an invaluable gift—a perfect escape from the summer heat in a fresh, lush, and peaceful setting.
By Jocelyne Dircks

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Here are a few suggestions for magnificent day hikes:

Day 1: A 15.5 km hike through the Allier Valley, Le Fraisse, Rogleton, the Serres Valley, and the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey.

Day 2: A 16.3 km loop hike via Le Thort, La Croix de Grabio, Masméjean, and the Moure de la Gardille plateau.

Day 3: A 19 km hike from Belvezet to La Bastide-Puylaurent. Take the train to Belvezet (check SNCF schedules). Follow the trail via Les Chazeaux, the Moure de la Gardille plateau, and the sources of the Chassezac and Allier rivers, following the GR®7 and GR®70 Stevenson Trail.

Day 4: A 21.5 km hike on the Ardèche side via Rogleton, the Summit of Espervelouze, the Coulet de Pecoyol, the Tower of Saint-Laurent-les-Bains, La Croix du Pal, the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey, and Les Bories.

Day 5: A 23.2 km hike from La Bastide-Puylaurent to Villefort via Le Col du Thort, Prévenchères, Albespeyres, the Chassezac Gorges, and La Garde-Guérin, following the GR®72 and GR®700 Regordane Way. Return to the guesthouse by train (check SNCF schedules).

Day 6: A 24 km hike from Langogne to La Bastide-Puylaurent. Take the train to Langogne (check SNCF schedules). Follow the GR®700 Regordane Way via Les Fagoux, the Mercoire forest, Luc, Pranlac, Laveyrune, and Rogleton.