21.5 km hike in La Bastide-Puylaurent
Cross the centre of the village and, after the butcher's shop, take the small road that climbs to the right. You are on the GR7, GR70, GR72 trails, and the GRP Le Cévenol, which share the same route up to the Abbey of Notre-Dame-des-Neiges and La Felgère. Then take the track on the right toward Croix de Pal. Descend via the path opposite, leading to the Tower of Saint-Laurent-les-Bains. Ignore the path on the right that goes back down to the village and continue straight toward Les Grazières and Les Goutaillous, which overlook Saint-Laurent. After 2 kilometres, turn left, then left again after 500 metres. Follow this path for about 3.3 kilometres to Coulet de Pécoyol. Then continue on the path ahead for 1.1 kilometres until you join the GR70, which will lead you to the summit of Espervélouze, then into the Serres valley and the hamlet of Rogleton. Cross the D906, then cross the bridge over the Allier River. Take the path on the left that runs along the railway. After crossing the Fraisse stream, pass under the railway through the tunnel, then turn left back to La Bastide-Puylaurent.
4km - 11km - 11.2km - 14km - 15.5km - 16.3km - 19km - 21.5km - 23.2km - 24km
Distance: 21.5 km, Maximum altitude: 1,284 m, Minimum altitude: 967 m, Total elevation gain: 682 m
IGN Maps: La Bastide-Puylaurent (2738E), Largentiere La Bastide-Puylaurent Vivarais Cevenol (2838OT)
The Tower of Saint-Laurent-les-Bains is an ancient watchtower located in the picturesque village of Saint-Laurent-les-Bains in Ardèche. Overlooking the village, it offers a breathtaking view of the surroundings. The exact date of construction remains unknown, but it may date back to the Carolingian era (8th–9th centuries). Coins from the time of Charlemagne have been discovered nearby, suggesting its existence since at least the 10th century. The tower served both as a refuge and an observation post, likely used to monitor the surrounding area and communicate with other towers using smoke or light signals. It stands approximately 17 metres high and 5 metres wide, with walls 1.5 metres thick at the base. Square in shape, each face corresponds to a cardinal point, which also allowed it to function as a sundial.
The Abbey of Notre Dame des Neiges, located in Saint-Laurent-les-Bains-Laval-d'Aurelle in Ardèche, is a place of peace and spirituality. Founded in 1850 by Trappist monks from the Abbey of Aiguebelle, it was a centre of spiritual life and manual work for over 170 years. In 2022, due to a decline in the number of monks, the community was replaced by Cistercian sisters from the Abbey of Boulaur, who continue the tradition of prayer and hospitality. The abbey is situated at an altitude of 1,100 metres, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The carefully maintained gardens are a haven of peace where visitors can stroll and meditate, surrounded by forests, meadows and rivers rich in biodiversity.
Monastic life at the abbey is punctuated by religious services open to the public. The sisters devote themselves to prayer, manual work and welcoming visitors, and also produce artisanal goods — jams, herbal teas and care products — sold to support the community. The abbey offers spiritual retreats lasting several days, combining participation in services, meditation and walks in nature.
The abbey has hosted notable guests, including the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson. In 1878, Stevenson stayed here during his journey through the Cévennes, which he recounted in Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. In 1890, Charles de Foucauld joined the Trappists and spent time at Notre Dame des Neiges — a decisive step in his spiritual journey. At the abbey he encountered the rigour of monastic life and deepened his relationship with God, though his quest for an even more austere and solitary existence eventually led him to leave and become a hermit.
