Take the train from La Bastide Saint-Laurent-les-Bains station (SNCF Timetables) to Chasseradès. Upon leaving the station, turn right onto the D6 road. After 350 meters, turn right again, cross the railway tracks, and take the path on the left. Follow this path to the Croix de Peyre, then continue straight along the small local road to the Croix de Grabio. Take the diagonal path on your right and rejoin the small road, passing by the Thort Dolmen (also known as the Palet de Gargantua). Walk through the small hamlet of Thort and follow the D906 for 200 meters. Take the path on the right that descends toward the old D906 road. Turn left and follow this abandoned road for 1.8 km. Climb left onto the dirt track that crosses the D906, passing the cemetery to reach the parking lot behind the church. Turn left twice toward the community hall and cross the Allier River via the footbridge.
From Chasseradès to La Bastide-Puylaurent via Thort
Distance: 11.2 km
Maximum altitude: 1,196 m | Minimum altitude: 1,016 m
Total elevation gain: 89 m
IGN Maps: La Bastide-Puylaurent (2738E) / Largentière, La Bastide-Puylaurent, Vivarais Cévenol (2838OT).
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Human presence in this region dates back to at least protohistory. Although ancient huts have vanished, the Thort Dolmen—known as the "Palet de Gargantua"—has stood since 2100–1800 BC. The historic road was later carved across the high plateaus of Thort, Molette, and Garde-Guérin, cutting through schist slopes in the Cèze valleys. In villages, houses were built over large warehouses with ogival arched doors, still visible in Génolhac in the Gard. Small carts, carrying limited loads of barely 500 kilograms due to their construction materials, traveled these routes. A 12th-century epic poem, Le Charroi de Nîmes, mentions the Régordane region having "carts and wagons in abundance" (char et charretes i a à grant planté, v. 950). If so, it was because the climate during this period was similar to ours and favorable for plant growth. Abundant harvests created wealth that needed to circulate. It was a prosperous era that afforded the luxury of building cathedrals we would struggle to design today. On the schist, carts with a 1.40-meter track gauge carved deep ruts over hundreds of passes, much like wooden clogs eventually wear down a stone doorstep.
Chasseradès, a small Cévennes village in Lozère, is renowned for its historical heritage and exceptional natural environment. With about 200 inhabitants, it attracts visitors with its pristine mountains and forests, ideal for outdoor activities like hiking. The village lies on the Stevenson Trail and is served by a picturesque railway line connecting Mende to La Bastide-Puylaurent, which crosses the spectacular Mirandol Viaduct offering views of the Chassezac gorges. The heritage of Chasseradès includes the imposing 12th-century Saint-Blaise Romanesque church, listed as a Historic Monument. Initially dedicated to Notre-Dame, it bears witness to local religious history and stands out for its massive architecture, comparable to that of Garde-Guérin. Nearby are the ruins of Mirandol Castle, an ancient medieval seigneury. The diverse local flora and fauna offer opportunities to observe deer, wild boars, wolves, lynx, birds of prey, and numerous bird species. Chasseradès is also a popular spot for trout fishing, mushroom picking, and cycling. Finally, Chasseradès welcomed Robert Louis Stevenson in 1878 during his famous journey with his donkey Modestine. Today, the village retains this peaceful and authentic atmosphere, making it a destination of choice for nature and tranquility lovers.
Holiday memories in Chasseradès are marked by conviviality and shared activities. Upon arriving in this picturesque village, the warm welcome from locals and loyal friends, along with joyous reunions, created a family atmosphere. Between guided hikes led by Mr. Esposito, football and rugby matches in the rectory woods, and explorations of the surroundings—forests, rivers, and mountains—every day brought its share of adventures and discoveries. Summers were also punctuated by traditions such as the pilgrimage to Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, fishing, forest hunting, and gathering arnica, cherries, and mushrooms. The August 15th ball was the highlight of the summer season, bringing villagers and vacationers together around dancing and bingo, creating unforgettable moments. The social life of the village, marked by local figures, the pétanque competition, and evenings animated by Fernand Claveroli's funny stories, strengthened the bonds among everyone. For the youth, Chasseradès represented a place of freedom, initiation, and first experiences, like secretly smoking or embarking on first flirts. These holidays, invariably renewed each year, remained for everyone a sanctuary of happy and intense memories, where every corner and every face evokes the carelessness and emotions of adolescence.