Relaxing stay and walks

The area is peaceful, wonderfully calm... The gentle murmur of the Allier River, the wind rustling through the leaves, an occasional dog bark, and the distant rumble of an arriving train—that’s about it. But as city dwellers overwhelmed by daily noise, this was precisely what we were seeking.

We chose this corner of the Cévennes partly by chance, but mostly thanks to the internet! We simply wanted to walk, hike, and relax in the cool summer air. And that is exactly what we did during our ten-day stay at L'Etoile.

We went on an unforgettable walk along the ridges of the GR®72 and GR®7 trails, which overlook Saint-Laurent-les-Bains on the Ardèche side. This twenty-kilometer trek on trails high above the small spa town rewarded us with a splendid view of the Tanargue massif, and we could even spot the Alps in the distance.

Naturally, we also hiked a section of the famous Stevenson Trail. We passed through the Moure de la Gardille, the hamlet of Mirandol, and the village of Chasseradès, making our way to Belvezet before taking the little train back.

The fortified village of La Garde-Guérin (where climbing the tower is a must), a stroll around Lake Villefort, and a loop trail starting from Mas de la Barque on Mount Lozère—all these excursions revealed highly diverse sites and landscapes that completely charmed us.

The recipe for a great stay here is simple: settle in at L'Etoile and ask Philippe for his "road-book" of local walks. Many enthusiastic past hikers have contributed their own trail discoveries, offering a vast array of options. You are never disappointed.

But perhaps the best part is coming back in the evening after a solid day of walking. It is so rewarding to return to the terrace and garden to enjoy a cold Belgian beer with Philippe Papadimitriou. He always takes a moment to chat, even when he’s expecting fifteen guests for dinner. (It’s worth mentioning that he runs the entire place himself: reception, management, cooking, cleaning, gardening, and even the occasional transport drop-off!)

The conviviality of the meals is something every hiker will appreciate. You bond with people quickly and often have wonderful conversations around the communal dining table. On top of that, the food at L'Etoile is excellent (the homemade bread is delicious), and the setting is truly remarkable.

This year, we had the pleasure of meeting the delightful Ana, an intern originally from Brazil who studies in New York and was assisting Philippe. Her smile, good humor, and the Brazilian music she played greatly contributed to the success of our stay in Lozère.

To be perfectly honest, we must add that when Philippe honored us by picking up his guitar by the fireplace to play "Hotel California" or country songs about gold miners in the American West, we were in absolute paradise! Over the past few years, Philippe has also developed a fantastic international exchange program with other innkeepers.

Oh, and he plays the piano, too! In short, we had a fulfilling and incredibly relaxing stay at L'Etoile. We left feeling completely refreshed, but with a slight pang in our hearts and a strong desire to return. By Danielle and Michel Pheulpin