Getaway in Lozère
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Getaway in Lozère |
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I had heard about the Cévennes as a hiker's paradise; a corner of France where nature was still intact and the hiking trails well-marked, less "sportive" than those in the Alps or the Pyrenees. After some research on the internet, I couldn't miss the guesthouse of La Bastide-Puylaurent, where I decided to stay for a few days.
Philippe, the owner of L'Etoile, extols the charms of the picturesque little train from Mende, which I take to Belvezet via Chasseradès, and from there, I will return on foot by following the GR®7.
I haven't packed my bag or laced up my seven-location hiking boots yet, and I'm also engaged in a deep conversation with Patrick, a solitary hiker on the Stevenson Trail, who talks to me about the constraints of life in Paris and the maximum conditioning he seeks to escape by all means.
As a precaution, I order a packed lunch from Philippe because it seems there are no shops in Belvezet, and I don't really want to make the 19 km return trip on an empty stomach.
The little train crosses meadows and woods along the Allier River to Chasseradès, a true rediscovery of the pleasure of taking the train through these bucolic landscapes.
Arrival at the Belvezet station, in front of which two retired couples are putting on their shoes. Hikers from all countries, unite! We chat; they come from the East and, being part of the large railway family, they have rented the station, transformed into a rural guesthouse. I praise the merits of L'Etoile, the charms of the proprietor, and the multiple hiking and cultural discovery opportunities in the surrounding area. In return, they inform me that indeed, there is no grocery store in Belvezet and nothing within a 15 km radius; my picnic will be welcome.
Difficult orientation at the start, luckily Philippe gave me the itinerary sheet at the 25,000 mark, otherwise, I would have certainly started on the right GR but in the opposite direction and, in the evening, surprise, arriving in Bleymard, facing Mont Lozère... Well, I cheerfully head towards Chazeaux, chat again with two people in their garden, and set off for the peaks. By the way, be vigilant when crossing the village because the path turns at an acute angle and the signage is barely visible. The road climbs, transforms into a path, and winds between meadows bordered by small, flowering broom walls and melancholic cows watching me pass by.
Do you know the song:
"In the beautiful land of Cocagne,
They built a railway,
That crosses the countryside,
Between two rows of green trees,
On the telegraph wires,
The birds have perched,
And the melancholic cows,
Graze at the level crossing."
The path descends back to a small road that you follow for 50 meters, then you take a dirt path ascending opposite while the road turns slightly to the left. The signage is visible at the entrance. In fact, you need to have blind faith, if I may say, and continue without getting emotional on the main path, ignoring the side trails until you reach an open space.
However, a few landmarks: at the top of the first hill, approaching the wooded part, you must turn left without hesitation, 100 meters later, you see a small water point on the right. Upon reaching the open area, you quickly spot on your left the Moure de la Gardille crowned with an antenna. No more need for faith, there are markers everywhere!
But then, it's beautiful! You're on the ridge. As far as the eye can see, on both sides, vast wooded or open spaces, villages in the distance in the valleys or on the hills, in the far left the Monts du Velay, on the right the Allier Valley with, in the distance, the first foothills of the Cévennes. And above it all, they gift you an immense sky, a strong wind that speaks the language of wandering, reminiscent of other paths, other more internal itineraries, for us who are mere passengers on earth. The ground is soft, and you advance with light steps in this vast scenery where it feels like happiness is too large a size.
Back to our sheep, the markers are fresh, no worries, only sometimes shadows, flowers, and always these escapes to changing horizons. A good hour of wandering in these highlands, then we find a wooded area and suddenly, we plunge towards the valleys, into a cool beech grove. We find the fences, a first farm; the stream to cross, jumping from stone to stone like when we were children, amidst the sparkling splashes in the sunlight, the last hill, the last sweat before returning to La Bastide Puylaurent and its beautiful large welcoming vacation home. When will the next happiness come! by Arlette Dupuis
19 km hike in La Bastide-Puylaurent 
Former resort hotel with a garden on the banks of the Allier River, L'Etoile Guesthouse is located in La Bastide-Puylaurent, between Lozère, Ardèche, and the Cévennes in the mountains of southern France. At the crossroads of the GR®7, GR®70 Stevenson Trail, GR®72, GR®700 Regordane Way (St Gilles), GR®470 Sources and Gorges of the Allier, GRP® Cévenol, Montagne Ardéchoise, Margeride, and many day loop hikes. Ideal for a relaxing and hiking stay.
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