Getaway in Lozère

I had often heard the Cévennes described as a hiker's paradise—a pristine corner of France where nature remains beautifully intact and the trails are clearly marked, offering a gentler, less strenuous alternative to the rugged Alps or Pyrenees. After a bit of online research, L'Etoile Guesthouse in La Bastide-Puylaurent caught my eye, and I decided to book a stay for a few days.

Philippe, the owner of L'Etoile, highly recommended taking the picturesque local train toward Mende. Following his advice, I took the train through Chasseradès up to Belvezet, planning to hike back on foot along the GR®7 trail.

I hadn’t even packed my bag or laced up my "seven-league" hiking boots yet, as I was deep in conversation with Patrick, a solitary hiker walking the Stevenson Trail. He was telling me all about the heavy constraints of Parisian life and his desperate need to escape the rigid conditioning of the city.

As a precaution, I ordered a packed lunch from Philippe. I had heard there were absolutely no shops in Belvezet, and I certainly didn't want to tackle a 19-kilometer hike on an empty stomach.

The little train wound its way through meadows and woods along the Allier River toward Chasseradès. It was a wonderful way to rediscover the simple, nostalgic joy of taking a train through such bucolic landscapes.

Arriving at the Belvezet station, I found two retired couples lacing up their hiking boots out front. Hikers of the world, unite! We struck up a conversation; they were from eastern France and, being part of the broader railway family, had rented the old station building, which had been wonderfully converted into a rural gîte. I sang the praises of L'Etoile, its charming host, and the myriad of hiking and cultural discoveries nearby. In return, they confirmed that there was indeed no grocery store in Belvezet—or anywhere within a 15-kilometer radius. My packed lunch was going to be a lifesaver!

Finding the right path at the start was a bit tricky. Thankfully, Philippe had given me a 1:25,000 scale itinerary map. Without it, I likely would have hopped on the right GR trail but in the completely wrong direction—only to end up in Le Bleymard facing Mount Lozère by nightfall! Armed with my map, I cheerfully set off toward Les Chazeaux, chatted briefly with two locals in their garden, and began my ascent toward the peaks. (A quick tip: stay alert when passing through the village, as the path takes a sharp turn and the signs are barely visible.) The paved road soon turned into a dirt trail, winding between meadows bordered by low, blossoming broom walls and melancholic cows that watched me pass.

"In the beautiful land of Cocagne,
They built a railway line,
That cuts across the countryside,
Between two rows of green pines.
Up on the telegraph wires,
The little birds have gathered round,
While the melancholic cows,
Graze near the crossing on the ground."

The trail eventually descends back to a small road, which you follow for about 50 meters before taking an ascending dirt path straight ahead (while the road curves slightly to the left). The trail markers are visible at the entrance. From there, you just need to have a little "blind faith"—stay confidently on the main path, ignore the branching side trails, and keep going until you reach an open clearing.

Here are a few helpful landmarks: at the top of the first hill, just as you approach the woods, turn left without hesitation. A hundred meters further, you'll pass a small water source on your right. Once you reach the clearing, you'll easily spot the Moure de la Gardille to your left, topped with its prominent antenna. At this point, no more blind faith is required—there are trail markers everywhere!

And then... it is simply breathtaking! You find yourself up on the ridge. As far as the eye can see in every direction, there are vast woodlands and open moors. You can spot distant villages nestled in the valleys or perched on hills. Far to the left lie the Velay mountains, while to the right stretches the Allier Valley, backed by the distant foothills of the Cévennes. Above it all is an immense, sweeping sky and a strong wind that whispers of wanderlust, reminding us of other paths and inner journeys, for we are all just passengers on this earth. The ground here is soft, and you walk with a light step through this grand scenery, feeling as though the happiness is almost too vast to take in.

But back to the trail—the markers are freshly painted, so there’s no need to worry. Your only companions are the shifting shadows, the blooming wildflowers, and the ever-changing horizon. After a solid hour of wandering across these highlands, you enter a wooded area and suddenly plunge down toward the valleys, into the refreshing shade of a beech grove. Soon, fences reappear, marking the first farms. You cross a lively stream by hopping from stone to stone, just like a child, surrounded by splashes sparkling in the sunlight. Then comes the final hill, one last effort before arriving back in La Bastide-Puylaurent and the beautiful, welcoming embrace of L'Etoile. I can't wait for my next moment of happiness here! By Solange Maillet