Corang Farmstay. An oasis in the Australian Bush

The bush, an infinite expanse where the average “out back station” owner possesses half a million acres (about 150,000 ha). The landscape is sparse with trees, yet eucalyptus still persist. Cows are scarce, replaced by sheep. The roads stretch straighter, and the sky expands larger. We have definitively left behind the “Tropical South” and the charred forests of southern Sydney.

Halden, (not to be confused with Holden, the car brand that won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1970), is a small town of 2301 inhabitants. They are seeking to increase their population as the younger generation no longer finds amusement here, and Canberra, over 100 km away, is too distant to expect city dwellers for the weekend. Upon our arrival at the small library, a young lady shows us the computer where we can check our emails. Then, leaving us alone in this quaint space, she disappears to smoke a cigarette on the bench opposite. The clothing salesman here is content; his store is large, but fashion doesn’t seem to be the priority. We discuss the country and the good life, sensing his dream of venturing outside Australia. Outside, under the full sun, the car heats up. In Halden, the main road spans a good 50 meters wide, the cars are large and aged. Signposts are scarce, but the people are very friendly and approachable.

We passed Wallendbeen unknowingly, a small sign indicating “Corang” (Aussie) already on the right. We are now in the real “bush” where the red dirt tracks lead you towards the horizon, with the risk of never encountering a gas pump. The atmosphere is palpable, and suddenly we stumble upon an oasis, our Aussie Bed and Breakfast Inn, a 3h30 drive from Sydney and 6h from Melbourne.

Colleen welcomes us to her home with sincerity and enthusiasm. An old farm transformed into a B&B, the interior is nostalgically decorated with family photos on the wall and a small bar that greets you as you enter the dining room. They have retained a hundred hectares, still cultivating cereals, harvesting hay, and grazing sheep from the neighboring farm 5 km away. Here, space is tangible, but it pales in comparison to the “stations”, large farms owning half a million hectares.

Swimming pool, tennis court, horse, and flower garden, everything has evolved since the first settlers of this far-east. Greg and Colleen have worked hard all their lives but have not given up. Their house exudes freshness, their good mood, and spontaneity are evident!

After a day under the sun, nothing beats a little “plouf” in the pool. The place is very pleasant, and our hosts are delightful. Leaning on the bar, Greg, Colleen’s husband, shares his nostalgia for the past, the endured work, and the mutual aid that has now disappeared. “The real Australians are not in Byron Bay,” he tells us. There, they do nothing all day and wait for state aid… Greg is the kind of man who no longer knows how to stop working, his face weathered by the vast spaces and the effort. He just took his shower and put on his nice clothes, we are touched by this warm welcome.

Always busy, Colleen puts us at ease and invites us into her kitchen. The atmosphere is authentic and fragrant. The bread is homemade and full of flavor. Through the kitchen window, a limitless landscape opens up, and a sky astonishing in its beauty and character. The meal is served in the dining room with placemats and silver cutlery. Colleen has a big heart, and her goodwill is constant. We have a very good evening.

The following day, our guide Colleen introduces us to the region once inhabited by pioneers, gold seekers, and bush rangers. We visit Young, a charming town with a broad central street where cars are parked in a herringbone pattern, a nostalgic nod to the 1950s.

Just 10 km away, Colleen’s son Gerard operates a thriving agricultural equipment depot. His success is fueled by the prosperity of local farmers, who are benefiting from the devaluation of the Australian dollar, which has boosted exports like meat and wheat. Gerard has used his success to build a stunning villa on a hill and plant his first vineyards of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, reflecting the growing Australian passion for wine.

In Young, we visit a wine cellar that reminds me of the Abbey Notre Dame des Neiges, with its familiar aroma and acoustics. Their wines, particularly the Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, are exceptional. Jenny, a barrel roller, shares her joy of leaving Sydney behind and embracing this new life, complete with a cowboy hat.

We enjoy small sandwiches in the garden of JD’s Jam Factory, a thriving business run by an ambitious owner. The factory, located in the heart of Young, produces artisanal jams among other things. Despite his busy schedule, the owner personally welcomes us, offering samples of jam and brochures about his company. This warm hospitality seems to be a common trait in Australia, where people are outgoing, perpetually cheerful, and always open to exchanging ideas or even doing business.

After our visit, we return to our beloved oasis for a refreshing dip in the pool. Greg, another local, suggests a trip to meet the kangaroos, followed by a drink at the village pub in Wallendbeen. We set off in a large 4x4 along a straight track, entering a eucalyptus forest owned by Greg. Despite our best efforts, we don’t spot any kangaroos, much to Greg’s disappointment.

Our next stop is Wallendbeen’s only pub, a successful hotel with seven rooms. Greg explains that the colonial-style exterior was funded by logging and inexpensive labor. Upon entering, we disrupt the usual tranquility of the patrons and the landlady, who ensures no one goes thirsty. Greg is well-known and respected here, a testament to his success.

The atmosphere in the pub is lively, filled with laughter and flowing beer. I quickly find myself in the company of three local patrons, their faces telling stories of adventure and camaraderie. The landlady’s mother, intrigued by the activity, descends from her apartment to make introductions. Her comforting presence will undoubtedly be one of our cherished travel memories.

Back at the oasis, Colleen prepares dinner in the kitchen while Greg fires up the barbecue on the terrace, grilling steaks as we soak in the authentic Australian ambiance.

Aussie Farmstay, Colleen & Greg Hines, Wallendbeen, NSW, Australia - Map