The Radiance of the Cévennes

Loop hikes set out right from L'Etoile Guesthouse, nestled just a stone's throw from the La Bastide-Saint-Laurent-les-Bains train station. Located on the famous Cévenol railway line linking Nîmes to Clermont-Ferrand, the house sits perfectly in the heart of the Cévennes.

Imagine a brilliant burst of golden broom sweeping across the Cévennes, a symphony of wind and color acting as a quiet requiem for these beautifully abandoned highlands. Embark on a hiking adventure along the ridges of the GR®7 between La Bastide and Belvezet, follow the Allier River on the Stevenson Trail from Langogne to La Bastide, explore the historic Regordane Way via La Garde-Guérin, or take the GR®72 past the Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Abbey up to Saint-Laurent-les-Bains and Loubaresse. The Cévennes await, ready to dazzle and move you!

A wide variety of star-shaped hikes begin right from L'Etoile. The nearby train station acts as a true "railway hub", with a track branching off towards Mende, opening up even more routing possibilities.

Your boots will tread through the rich history and breathtaking landscapes of the Cévennes! And every evening, you return to the unique atmosphere of L'Etoile: the spaciousness, the light, the communal dining table, cold Belgian beers on the terrace, fresh homemade bread, a soothing evening herbal tea, and the crackling fire in the hearth. You might even be treated to one of Philippe's piano concertos (perhaps some Gurdjieff or De Hartmann?). Add to that a comfortable, restful night's sleep, and you are ready for whatever tomorrow brings—whether it’s another trail, a day of sightseeing in Le Puy-en-Velay, Pradelles, or La Garde-Guérin, or a refreshing swim in the Borne River or Lake Villefort.

A Touch of the Cévennes in Toulouse. The other evening, I had the privilege of hosting Philippe—the former gold prospector, cowboy of the American West, cycling champion from Belgium to Greece, and the ever-welcoming host of L'Etoile. He was passing through my beautiful city of Toulouse (which was still recovering from the tragic explosion of September 21st). We reminisced and "navigated" from Brussels to Toulouse, from Prague to the United States and Australia. Yet, our conversations always returned to that special corner of the Cévennes where Philippe has created a vibrant sanctuary that everyone can appreciate and love—provided they take the time to listen, feel, walk, and open both their eyes and their hearts! Then, in the dead of night, Philippe the adventurer, Radka (from Prague), and Billy the placid dog hit the road once more, heading toward new horizons and other friends of L'Etoile in Bayonne and Bordeaux.

I finally found my Cévennes again... in total freedom! It brought me nothing but joy after a few years of unfaithfulness.

La Bastide-Puylaurent, perched at an altitude of 1,024 meters... L'Etoile Guesthouse and its maestro, Philippe... This unique place is a true crossroads for European encounters. It is always with great emotion that I board the local TER train from Nîmes to Mende, winding through the Cévennes mountains: Nîmes, Alès, La Grand-Combe, Chamborigaud, Génolhac, and Villefort.

The journey takes you from the Protestant Cévennes to the Catholic Cévennes, a transition magnificently described by the writer and storyteller Jean-Pierre Chabrol (who now rests near Chamborigaud). You pass deep valleys, bare summits, chestnut forests, and remote, perched hamlets, all while admiring the golden broom that blankets these once-populated but now wonderfully wild highlands.

Philippe will warmly welcome you to this former resort hotel, which he has single-handedly transformed and beautified over the years. You’ll find bright, comfortable rooms and a large communal hall centered around a massive fireplace. Here, at the large dining table, hikers gather every evening to share a delicious dinner prepared by the maestro himself.

I must also mention the lovely terrace under the arbor—the perfect spot to enjoy a cold Belgian beer. And let’s not forget the charming little cabin by the Allier River, which flows gently through the park below the tall white building. It is a true little paradise for spending the night!

Come and discover the Cévennes and L'Etoile. You will leave completely enchanted!
By Christian Lalanne