Karpniki A Polish escape between forests and lakes

Nestled between Poznan and the Baltic Sea, amidst the pine woods and on the edge of a serene lake, stands a charming chalet, flanked by several outbuildings. Welcome to “Karpniki”, the home of Mr. and Mrs. Sloniewscy.

Mrs. Barbara Sloniewska, a former professor of environmental protection at the technical high school in Gniezno, is a distinguished and cultured woman. She is always attentive, ensuring everything runs smoothly with utmost kindness. In 1994, she and her husband ventured into agrotourism, constructing a splendid chalet that could host around ten people. The chalet offers full board, serving regional products or fresh produce from her garden, which is conveniently located right in front of our room.

The majority of their guests are Polish, visiting for fishing, mushroom picking, walks, or simply to unwind. Meals are enjoyed at communal tables, fostering a relaxed atmosphere. The decor is understated, and the interaction is direct, creating a sense of camaraderie rather than a business transaction.

My limited Polish vocabulary, which includes common phrases like “dziekuje, dzien dobry, do widzenia, dobranoc, jak sie panienka czuje” and “smacznego”, makes it challenging for me to engage in conversations. Thankfully, Agnieszka, who speaks near-perfect French with a slight Slavic accent, occasionally translates sentences for me, helping me follow the conversation. However, Polish remains a complex language for a Belgian-French-Greek like me!

Despite being 65, the owner has ambitious plans for her “dom goscinny” (guest rooms), including expanding the dining room, adding new rooms, and arranging beautiful stables for horses. She admits that her guest house may be slightly pricey for the region, but considering the generous meals and the stunning surroundings, the prices seem quite reasonable. German neighbors, who have a higher purchasing power, often visit on weekends. They always pay in cash, but their Polish proficiency is no better than mine.

In return for our stay, her daughter and her husband will visit us next year. Meanwhile, I can show her pictures of L’Etoile and its surroundings on my laptop. France, which seemed so distant a few years ago, now feels closer and more appealing, thanks to its membership in the European Union, which has brought us into the same community.

The sky in Poland always greets me with its vibrant blue hue. The wind, cold and almost icy, whistles through the air; could it be a breeze from Siberia? Here, nature remains untouched. Lakes teem with fish, and the woods, blanketed in silence, invite one for a long, peaceful nap. Amidst these vast forests of pines, spanning 60,000 square kilometers, many a mushroom forager has lost their way. Occasionally, a path emerges, leading to the few isolated dwellings like “Karpniki”. It was Mr. Bogdan Sloniewski who guided us from the quaint village of Kwiejce, through an unmarked trail, to their tranquil sanctuary.

Tomorrow morning, I must rise early to join two fishermen hailing from Gliwice in the south. They are successful businessmen who return here annually, seeking the familiar scent of their roots and cherished moments of intimacy with their partners.

Steering the iron boat is no easy task; the current towards the partially open lock and a long concrete as the sole means of propulsion exhausts our urban fisherman struggling to navigate the waters. I’ve never been one for fishing, but in such good company, under the warm autumn sun, I find myself delighting in their paradise.

Pigeons coo softly, dogs rest peacefully, and horses graze in the corral. Poland seems to be taking a respite from the long, arduous years of its history. The small village store, a relic of the communist era, reminds us of the times when people queued for a share of two bananas and subpar bread. “Yes, we can breathe now in Poland!” exclaims Agnieszka, a young woman of just 26. We can envision and plan beyond just the present day or the immediate future…

This is my second visit to this beautiful country, and I feel at home here. The people are warm and spontaneous, brimming with energy! The European community was indeed enriched on May 1, 2004, with Poland’s entry!

Karpniki, Bed and Breakfast, Barbara & Bogdan Sloniewscy, Kwiejce 35, Chelst - Map