Tourism and hiking around La Bastide-Puylaurent

We arrive in the afternoon, each traveling by car or the “Cevenol” train. The weather is delightful, and the reunions are as heartwarming as ever. We find ourselves settling in at the “L’Etoile” guest house, a charming former tourist hotel from the 1930s, nestled on the banks of the Allier, a river that forms the border between Ardeche and Lozere.

Our organizers, ever diligent, whisk us away for a walk in the quaint village of La Bastide-Puylaurent and to Lake Beal, a haven for farmed trout fishing. The trout, net-fished, are also sold here. Our resident hunter-fisherman, Popeil, gives us an intriguing demonstration on baiting trout using red fruits found locally, and to our surprise, it works!

Our journey continues with a 14km loop hike towards the Abbey of “Notre Dame des Neiges” located in the town of St Laurent les Bains in Ardeche. We follow the GR®72 trail (shared with the GR®7), leading us to this abbey, a testament to the Cistercian Trappists’ legacy since 1864. We indulge in a visit to the cellars, a moment of meditation, and a tasting of a dry white and a sweet white wine, making this place a popular destination for residents of Nîmes and Ales.

Robert Louis Stevenson, during his stay at Notre-Dame des Neiges, recounts: “At this late season, the residents there were few in number. However, I was not alone in the public part of the monastery. It is located near the entrance and includes a small dining room on the ground floor and, upstairs, an entire corridor of cells similar to mine.” Our meditation deepens during a walk along the crest of the GR®7, in search of a picnic spot offering a breathtaking view of the Borne Valley. We return to La Bastide-Puylaurent via the Vallee de Serres and Rogleton, where we find the Chemin de Stevenson GR®70 running along the Allier.

Our tour of the watershed takes us to the small village of Puylaurent, now a hamlet in the commune of La Bastide-Puylaurent. Here, we find a small chapel of exquisite beauty and a view of the Goulet and Mont Lozere that leaves us breathless. En route, we stop at the Thort dolmen, known as the “Palet de Gargantua”. The Thort dolmen is located 200m from the hamlet towards Prevencheres on the GR®72 and GR®700.

We visit the Puylaurent dam, a marvel of engineering built on the Chassezac river. The Puylaurent dam, the largest dam built in France at the end of the 20th century, began construction in June 1990 and was completed in May 1996. The project involved 15 companies under the project management of the Ardeche departmental equipment union and the technical management of EDF Ingenierie Hydraulique. 200 people dedicated 500,000 hours of work to this project. We cross Prevencheres, resisting the temptation to visit the shop of the renowned chocolatier who has since relocated to Les Vans. A detour takes us to the viewpoint of the Chassezac gorges, located next to the small village of Albespeyres. The view over the canyon, Pied de Borne, and beyond to the Alps, is truly awe-inspiring.

We find ourselves journeying back to the medieval village of La Garde Guerin. A visit to the fortified village and its tower is on our agenda. The climb is challenging, but the stunning view of Mont Lozere and the Chassezac canyon makes it worthwhile. In the village, we witness an engaging conversation between two connoisseurs of langue d’oc, a local elder and Gigi. This elderly villager is delighted to converse in the local dialect. Unfortunately, the Auberge de La Regordane, located in the heart of the village, is fully booked and unable to accommodate us.

Our leaders decide to venture to Villefort, following the Voie de St Gilles or the Chemin de la Regordane. This path has a rich history, once trodden by Arvernian and Greek merchants, knights, pilgrims, peddlers, jugglers, and troubadours. It was a route for wine, spices, simple salt, oil, cheeses, and even the “strategic” tin route to the Mediterranean. It was also a path for the Frankish chivalry marching against the Saracens. Yet, there is still no time for a nap.

We set off on the D.901 towards Altier, passing through the upper and lower town. We pause at the village of Bleymard to admire its quaint chapel before crossing Bagnols les Bains and heading towards Mende. We take a brief tour of the city, its cathedral, and its charming old houses and narrow streets.

Then, via the N. 106, we reach Rieutort de Randon and via the D. 1, Châteauneuf de Randon. This town, which boasts a statue of Dugesclin and was once one of the strongholds of Gevaudan, fell in 1361 to the power of large companies. One of their leaders, Seguin de Badifol, a Gascon knight, roamed the country at the head of 3000 plunderers. Twenty years later, in 1380, others took over. These companies, half English, half Gascon, thanks to the wars between France and England, were stationed in several strongholds in Auvergne and Languedoc. “Oh, honor and chivalry, so much will be lost when this ceases!”

We depart for Luc, where we stop at the regional cheese factory of “Rissoan”. Among our purchases, the extra fine Blue “Le petit Risso” and “Le Sourire Lozerien” hold a special place. In Langogne, we admire the Wheat Market, built by the Fleury priory in 1742. Fourteen stone pillars support the wooden frame and the slate roof of the Tournel. Under this cover, the grain market was held, and the priory retained a “cartalage” right for the measurement of these grains. We quickly visit the Romanesque church with its 15th-century Gothic facade.

Langogne venerates “Our Lady of All Power” (not the Black Madonna). We visit the Calquieres spinning mill, where different machines, dating from the beginning of the industrial era, transformed raw wool into narrow strips, then non-resistant threads, and finally real threads, thanks to an enormous machine that replaced a hundred spinners and their distaff.

We then return to La Bastide-Puylaurent via Cheylard l’Evêque. At Philippe’s, we feel at home. We engage in open and frank discussions, enjoy the landscape and the tranquility, seated under the large lime tree of the park along the river. As the time of departure approaches, we promise each other to return and relive this first successful experience.

He diligently works on his websites, promoting his unique concept and sharing his motivation for a different way of co-existing, working, and developing this adventure that he pursues with the tenacity of a gold prospector. “I may be a businessman, but I am not a trader at heart; the money will follow if the idea is rich and promising”…

Our journey takes us to Saint Laurent les Bains in Ardeche for a thermal treatment. To stimulate our appetites, we embark on a brief tour around and above the village of St Laurent. We visit the ancient call tower, once used in medieval times to maintain contact with other villages such as La Garde Guerin or Loubaresse.

We descend to the village and settle at a local restaurant to refuel for our afternoon treatment. The spa guests, dressed in robes, hats, towels, and slippers, brace themselves for a 10-minute vaporarium session. Despite the stifling temperature and the enveloping fog of Mont-Dari, they all endure. They remain unaware of what awaits them around the corridors’ corners.

The next step is a bath, but not in just any liquid. It’s a unique blend of spring water and kaolin, creating a milky pool with a thick cream-like consistency. The density is so high that one cannot stand upright, creating a sensation of total weightlessness. Despite its stickiness and the white marks it leaves for three days, despite a shower and vigorous scrubbing, the experience is unique. The final step is more pleasant - a swim in a pool filled with spring water. Each person has a spot with an adjustable water jet for a head-to-toe massage. During this treatment stay, our bodies may have endured, but our spirits were in celebration. This experience was far from sad.

Gathered around the large table at L’Etoile guesthouse, our group decides to explore Haute-Ardeche on our first day. In the morning, we depart from La Bastide-Puylaurent for Luc and Langogne along the Allier, then to Pradelles in Haute-Loire. We pause at Lake Issarles before heading back towards Beage.

After traversing the Bonnefoy forest, we arrive at the foot of the Gerbier de Jonc, next to the sources of the Loire. Located on the west side of this conical lava dome, 1551 meters above sea level, are the sources of the Loire. Without a moment to admire the landscape, the group is already marching towards the summit, where the view is truly spectacular. As I catch my breath, the group is already descending. At the bottom, some purchase jams, others honey, and the rest are drawn to a monument of the sources, intrigued by an advertisement for Sancerre wines irrigated by the Loire.

After an initial attempt at a picnic at the Col du Mezenc, we had to abandon our plans. The area proved too windy for our paper plates and plastic glasses. We descended the sheltered slope, and further down, our friend Bitas discovered a clearing surrounded by conifers. A ritualistic unpacking ensued, with everyone contributing to set up the tables, chairs, and food, not forgetting the “little pear”.

The afternoon was dedicated to exploring Mezenc, standing tall at 1753 meters. We ascended to the peaks (there are two). With the help of orientation tables, we didn’t lose our way, although the horizon was somewhat obscured. Some, lost in the clouds, swore they had glimpsed Mont Blanc. The Pilat dune, however, remained elusive. But Mont Pilat, standing at 1432 meters and nestled between the Rhone and Loire Valleys, could have been visible.

Our journey took us back towards the lodge, with a stop at the Recoumene viaduct. This architectural masterpiece, built during the heroic era of railway beginnings by the resident engineer, stood devoid of tracks and trains. Perhaps out of respect for this work, the bridge was preserved (though I suspect economic reasons played a part). It has since been repurposed by a bungee jumping association, adding a touch of tourism to the site.

On the second day, we set out to explore the peaks of Lozere. Departing via the D.6 towards Masmejean, we passed through Chasserades, Mirandol, l’Estampe, and the Goulet mountain before arriving at the quaint village of Bleymard. While some of us diligently procured food supplies, others visited this beautiful village nestled at the foot of Mont Lozere. Bleymard, home to 434 inhabitants, is situated at a crossroads of two diverse roads; one leading from Mende to Villefort along the Lot and the Altier, and the other, the D. 20, originating from Belvezet, climbing and descending the ridge of Goulet, barely crossing the town before ascending Mont-Lozere towards Finiels and the Pont de Montvert. By this D. 20, we ascended to the Bleymard ski resort, home to three hotels.

As we enjoyed our snack, we were treated to a breathtaking view of the Valley and the Cevennes mountains. Without a pause for a nap or rest, the group headed towards the Finiels pass. On this circuit, the draille was lined with standing stones, reminiscent of menhirs.

In foggy weather, these stones served as landmarks for shepherds guiding their flock down the mountain in autumn. Only a portion of our group reached the summit of Finiels, standing at 1699 meters, following several abandonments along the way. Our efforts came to a halt at the sight of the bold shapes of the Mount Lozere chapel, built in 1967 by the scouts of France. The unique form of the roof, designed to let the snow slide down to the ground without risk of accident, caught our attention.

In these regions, the evolution of vegetation is largely a reflection of the history of pastoralism and, conversely, the presence of the forest. The beech and fir forests that once populated Mt Lozere during the Gallo-Roman era were gradually decimated by herds. However, since the dawn of the 20th century, heath, pines, and birches have begun to reclaim the abandoned pastures. The ONF also advocates for the planting of beech and fir trees. Wild boars, deer, and roe deer have made these forests their home.

La Bastide Puylaurent, located in the province of Gevaudan, was merely a hamlet of a few houses scattered along the Regordane in the 18th century.

The Regordane way, as it is referred to in ancient documents, only adopted the name Voie Regordane in the 20th century. It derives its name from the region of Regordane which it traverses, just as the Chemin de Forez is named after the mountains it winds through. This region, even this province - referred to as the provincia of Regordana in a 1323 act of the Château de Portes - roughly corresponds to the territory extending between the towns of Ales, Chamborigaud, Genolhac, Villefort, La Garde-Guerin, Preveches, La Bastide, Luc, Langogne, Pradelles, and Largentiere. In the 17th and 18th centuries, a few inns and a very active mule relay were located here, providing refuge for travelers and pilgrims, who sometimes found themselves snowed in for several weeks. The first church was built here in 1741, and a century later, the current building was erected on the same site.

Here, the railway line from Mende, Allenc, Belvezet, Chasserades converges with the line from Paris to Marseille via Clermont-Ferrand, Nîmes with the “Cevenol”. Unfortunately, the Nîmes-Clermont-Ferrand line does not enjoy the promotional leniency of the SNCF like the TGV. However, it enables the residents of Nîmes and Montpellier, who are fond of tranquil hiking, to embark on magnificent trips up to 1,500 m altitude in a single day trip. Departure options (from Montpellier) include 6:57 a.m. (except Sunday) or 7:35 a.m. (every day, with a change in Nîmes). Destination choices include Genolhac, nestled on the side of Lozere, and even higher up, Villefort with its magnificent body of water surrounded by the steep slopes of the Gorges du Chassezac.

La Bastide-Puylaurent (La Bastide St-Laurent-les-Bains), perched at an altitude of 1024 meters, is a stone’s throw from the triple watershed of the Loire, Rhone, and Garonne basins, represented by the Allier, Chassezac, and Lot, which originate on the neighboring highlands. At over a thousand meters above sea level, it is an ideal vacation spot for summer and winter sports.

A few kilometers to the east, La Trappe de Notre Dame des Neiges attracts numerous visitors, some drawn by the tranquility of this Cistercian cloister, others by the enchanting setting of this serene valley. The Trappists have demonstrated their prowess as excellent winemakers, and many come here to procure quality wines, harvested in the plains of Gard and Ardeche. It was at Notre Dame des Neiges that Charles de Foucauld, a hermit from Tamanrasset who entered the abbey as a novice in 1890, resided before departing for the Sahara.

Robert Louis Stevenson once visited the abbey. “The day is meticulously divided into various tasks. The caretaker of the rabbits, for instance, dashes from his hutch to the chapel, the chapter room, or the refectory throughout the day. At all times, he has a hymn to sing, a duty to perform. From the moment he awakens in the dark at two o’clock until he retires at eight to receive the comforting gift of sleep, he remains engrossed in a multitude of shifting tasks.” - Stevenson

The thermal waters of St Laurent les Bains have been celebrated for centuries. Despite the challenging paths (GR®72 linking Mont Lozere to the Col du Bez via Villefort, Preveches, le Thort, La Bastide-Puylaurent, and Notre Dame des Neiges abbey), people have been flocking there for hydrotherapy since the 18th century. The resort enjoyed a period of popularity in the 19th century due to the thermal water craze. The construction of the Paris-Nîmes railway and the proximity of the La Bastide-Puylaurent and Langogne stations enabled it to accommodate spa guests from major southern French cities such as Marseille, Nîmes, Montpellier, Clermont-Ferrand, and Lyon. However, due to a decline in customers, it had to shut down in the 1960s. In 1987, “The thermal chain of the sun” renovated the entire resort. It was believed at the time to primarily treat skin diseases due to the sulfuric properties of these waters. Recent advertisements for this station only mention treatments for rheumatism and sciatica.

The Chassezac, originating in Moure de la Gardille, flows into the Ardeche after an 80 km course. It waters the vicinity of Belvezet, passes under the significant Mirandol viaduct, and immediately plunges 25 to 30 meters into a narrow slot between two granite walls. Its bed then broadens, and it cascades beneath the hamlet of Mas, south of Chasserades. Between Puylaurent and L’Hermet, it narrows its banks again and plunges 95 m deep. It then flows tranquilly for 5 or 6 km between verdant meadows, under ash trees and poplars. After passing along the Prevencheres station, it expands into a magnificent lake, Lake Rachas, where a dam holds it back.

The untamed river then enters its grand canyon, which is impossible to follow after Albespeyre. However, a viewpoint of the Chassezac gorges is established on the edge of the old D.906, which connects Ales to Langogne. In good weather, the spectacle is truly breathtaking: upstream, two waterfalls; then the waters circumvent a massive granite slope, infiltrate a narrow neck, and plunge into the “devil’s pot”: the rock descends steeply on both sides for 300 m. It then flows, forming a Z, on a thin path that it has carved in the hard rock. It is there between two fortresses: that of La Garde Guerin and that of Roure.

The medieval village of Garde-Guerin, a beautiful watchtower once encircled by ramparts of which only ruins remain, stands tall with its imposing mass. According to the “Etymological Dictionary of Place Names in France”, the word “Garde” originates from the Germanic “Wart” and signifies guard, watchtower, fortress.

The partially restored castle and village form a stunning medieval ensemble. This was the domain of the “Paries”, a unique association of knights and gentlemen who served as a police militia, protecting and guiding travelers on the GR®700 Voie Regordane or Chemin de St Gilles.

This path gained prominence in the Middle Ages, following the division of the Carolingian Empire, which placed the Rhone Valley within the Germanic Empire and made the Chemin de Regordane the easternmost route in the Kingdom. Approximately thirty of them resided in La Garde Guerin, adhering to meticulous and precise statutes that regulated income distribution and the succession of pareries. They were under the jurisdiction of the Barrons (the Guerins) of Tournel.

In a 12th-century text written in late Latin, we find: “castrum quod vocatur la Garda”, translating to “the stronghold that we call La Garde”. It remains unclear when the name Guerin was appended to La Garde. It is generally believed that the lords who settled in La Garde around the 12th century were Guerins. “Guerin” is a surname shared among the three baronies of Randon, Apcher, and Tournel. Bishop Aldebert III of Tournel launched an expedition against them and besieged their stronghold. Once protectors, they had turned into thieves, robbing those they were supposed to safeguard. They eventually submitted and returned to the path of righteousness. Their brotherhood endured until the French Revolution.

The construction of the Mende > La Bastide Puylaurent section posed numerous challenges. After deciding to drill a 2124 m tunnel under the Goulet mountain, work was halted after completing a third of the route. The current route via Allenc, Belvezet, Chasserades was chosen, featuring a climb of 1215 m near Belvezet. To shield this route from snow, it was necessary to install costly snow barriers and covered galleries, making it far from a speedy route!

The other line, that of the Cevennes, links Nîmes to Clermont-Ferrand via Ales and Langogne. It is quite uneven and ascends 897m over 66 km between Ales and La Bastide-Puylaurent. This is one of the three steepest inclines in Europe.