Unforgettable hike in the Cevennes

Here, the warm welcome and comforting atmosphere create an unforgettable experience. The meals served at our table d’hôtes are not only plentiful but also of superior quality. The wine, sourced from the southern Cévennes, complements our homemade bread perfectly.

Philippe, an experienced traveler, introduces a unique perspective on tourism and hospitality, which he has developed through regular interactions with innkeepers worldwide. Despite his busy schedule, this multi-talented adventurer always remains calm and open-minded. The house, including the spacious rooms offering views of the Allier and the park, reflects his personality. Philippe’s extensive knowledge of the Cévennes region and its numerous hiking trails, ranging from a few hours to several days, is compiled in a large green binder for the guests to explore and enjoy an exceptional fitness stay.

La Bastide-Puylaurent, located just 1 km from the watershed, is surrounded by a diverse range of landscapes. To the east lies the Ardèche with its canyons, to the north the Haute-Loire and its plateaus, to the west the Lozère and its forests, and to the south the Cévennes and its National Park. Just 500m from the village, nature envelops you; don’t be surprised if you encounter a deer, a wild boar, or stumble upon porcini mushrooms, a treasure for mushroom hunters.

Our First Day: We embark on a hike towards the Cévennes, heading to Le Bleymard following the GR®70 Chemin de Stevenson. This trail ascends the Moure de la Gardille, near the sources of the Allier, and descends to Chasseradès, where the Chassezac flows.

After crossing the majestic Mirandol viaduct, which the small train connecting La Bastide-Puylaurent to Mende traverses, we begin the long ascent of the Goulet mountain via l’Estampe. The dense forest here was once the domain of Guillaume Périer, the last baron of Mirandol. A long descent through the Alpiers takes us over the Lot Valley and Bleymard, with Mont Lozère in view. This slightly long 28 km stage is made easier by the alternating forest, moor, and lawn landscapes. The comfortable Hotel La Remission allows for good recovery. If this hike seems too long, you can stop at the Mirandol gîte (15 km) run by the Hôtel des Sources in Chasseradès or at Tiny Aubenque’s stopover gîte at the Alpiers (26 km).

Second Day: The hike to Pont de Montvert is easier, covering only 18 km. It includes a visit to the Mont Lozère station via the Col du Santel, a 400-meter elevation gain, and a little more effort to reach the summit of Finiels, the highest point of Mont Lozère at 1699 meters. From here, you can enjoy an exceptional panorama of the Cévennes. The descent to Pont de Montvert takes you to the site of the bloody Camisard wars, which saw Protestant and Catholic opposition across the Cevennes.

From there, we leave the Stevenson Trail and spend the night at the communal lodge. As Robert Louis Stevenson wrote: 'One of the first things encountered in Pont-de-Montvert, if I remember correctly, was the Protestant temple. But this was only the omen of other novelties. A subtle atmosphere distinguishes a town of ‘England from a town in France or even Scotland.

Day 3: Embarking on the journey to Mas de la Barque, I chart my hike via the D998, passing through the hamlets of Futgères, Merlet, and Felgeroles. Here, I find the GR®72 trail, which I follow until reaching La Bastide-Puylaurent. The trail traces the upper course of the Tarn, with the Altier, the Lot, the Tarn, and the Gardons all originating from Mont Lozère. An alternative route from Pont du Tarn allows for a visit to Mas Camargue and the hamlet of Bellecoste. The inviting Mas de la Barque gîte tempts me to extend my stay.

Day 4: Departing from the Mas de la Barque lodge, I set out on a star hike towards Pic Cassini at 1680 m. With clear weather, the panoramic view extends as far as Mt Aigoual. The return journey takes me across the moor to the hamlet of Bellecoste, where a shepherd is preparing fences for the imminent summer pasture. Through the Commander’s Wood, I return to the Mas de la Barque lodge, a restful stop after a 16 km journey.

Day 5: Overnight rain leads me to stay 1 km on the road until the GR 72 takes a DFCI path (Forest Defenses Against Fires), allowing for a dry walk. Despite a rough descent to Villefort, the sun returns to the Cévennes. After following the lake’s banks and crossing the dam, the path ascends to the plateau. A visit to the fortified village of Garde Guérin and the Gorges du Chassezac precedes my arrival at Albespeyre, marking the end of my 19 km hike.

The journey intersects with the GR®700 Voie Régordane, a path steeped in history, from knights and pilgrims to peddlers and troubadours. It was a route of wine, spices, simple salt, oil, and cheeses, and also the “strategic” tin route to the Mediterranean. It was a trail of stars in the Milky Way of the journey that was the Middle Ages.

The journey of the priest Aulanier du Brignon in the 17th century is noteworthy. On November 17, he left at dawn on Bastide Day, dined in Villefort at the three kings’ lodgings, and spent the night at Pradel at the house called Fornier. The Butinerie gîte, an old 18th-century bastide tastefully renovated, stands as a testament to the courteous welcome of the hostess from Lunéville, (Meurthe et Moselle).

Day 6: With only 17 km left, I follow the Régordane path back to La Bastide-Puylaurent, via the Rachas dam, the top of Prévéchés, and Le Thort. Here, I cross the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean at an altitude of 1,133 meters.

Upon arrival at L’Etoile Guesthouse, I find my car and my friend Philippe. My journey was punctuated by exciting encounters: deer, hares, eagles, magnificent flowers, and numerous trout seen while crossing the footbridges over the streams. Ah, these Cévennes! We come there, we feel good there, we come back!